Submitted by putriidx t3_122ohzx in DIY

Hey r/DIY,

I have tried my best to google, youtube, and scour reddit for some solutions but I can't find anything. Most anything I find relates to French Drains, or dry-creek beds and not whatever...this is.

PICTURES OF THE PROJECT (Further info below)

Tl;Dr: Previous homeowners have left me with a rock path/drain that is simply a small trench with rocks on the bottom, an open-faced corrugate pipe in the middle and more rocks on top. There is no fabric or anything. This leads to a box drain at the edge of the mulch-bed as seen in the pictures.

Okay, I am having issues trying to DIY anything that is meant to "fix" whatever previous owners did in and outside of this house. I am ready to get after this but after my track record I think I need some help.

As I stated above this rock trench is simply rocks, a corrugated pipe cut in half and more rocks leading to a box drain that is being fed from one of my downspouts as well. My wife likes the rocks, but they keep getting clogged with dirt and weeds and the water will pool at the beginning of the path where the driveway meets the pathway to the front door. (In the album above)

What should I do here? I was thinking of just removing the rocks and putting them aside and maybe washing some of the dirt off while tossing that damn pipe. I was thinking about landscaping fabric and a metal or plastic edger to keep it separate from the sod (or would geotextile fabric be better?)

I am honestly not sure what to do here. It should be noted that the water doesn't really drain into the box drain unless there is enough force and amount to spill over the rocks into the drain.

Any idea what I should do?

Would it be best to get a small box drain/catch basin and corrugate to pvc (due to bends) and tie it into the box drain where the downspout meets it and just have the rocks as decorative?

Further info: NW Georgia, mix of brown dirt and red clay - the trench may all be black/brown dirt. Negative slope from top of yard down to this area, but from the start of the trench to the box drain it's only a slight (nearly level - kinda) slope.

Thank you all so much!

Edit: Fixed NW Georgia instead of original NE Georgia.

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Comments

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ShuRugal t1_jdr3vmw wrote

What's the back yard like? Can you continue the trench around the house to drain around back?

If not, your best bet is probably to rip it out and build a proper French Drain. Judging by that slope, it'll need to be a right big one. 1,000 cubic feet or more.

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2001sleeper t1_jdr4p0w wrote

If it is not working, dig it up and replace with some of the premade PVC French drain pipe.

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putriidx OP t1_jdr4pgc wrote

I'll try to remember to snag a picture later, but from the box drain to the backyard (side of house) it's a pretty good slope then once it hits the back yard it kinda levels but then slopes for 50 or so more feet pretty good.

The drain here goes all the way back a few hundred feet and on the way is connected to another downspout and I am not sure how they did it and I don't even know if I want to look lol

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Pinstrip3 t1_jdr9vue wrote

Like it is now it will always clog, that gravel works like a filter catching all the dirt.

French drain will help to some extent. The soil/gravel over it should be below the level of the path so the water doesn't spill over the edge.

Other solution would be to put a smooth half pipe along the path down to the drain, without filling it with gravel (some big stones if wife insists). Water has to flow freely. Drain will clog so it will have to be cleaned on regular basis.

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Jd771 t1_jdrcgoj wrote

If they go through the work of digging up, is there a way to deal with the excess sediment at the end where the trench meets the driveway? Seems to be the worst spot for the finer sediment and then gets introduced to the entire system from the start.

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Sofarbeyondfucked t1_jdrg6er wrote

If you dig it up consider adding one or two clean outs as insurance

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The42ndDuck t1_jdrngax wrote

That sloped driveway situation is.....unfortunate....for water management.

Check out this YouTube channel for some ideas on a more permanent solution, this guy is pretty thorough/arguably overkill but it depends on how much you can DIY. I think I've seen him deal with a front yard/driveway/walkway issue very similar to yours.

https://www.youtube.com/@GCFD/videos

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Klaatu162 t1_jdrr8l4 wrote

I agree with you. A half pipe or some other open trench to carry away the water and sediment. It should go directly to your catch basin, which you will have to clean out whenever it get filled with sediment. The open trench should be set below the edge of the walkways. The Georgia clay and silt soil will clog any filter cloth around a buried drain pipe. The trench should be open to allow for easy cleanout.

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putriidx OP t1_jdrrf13 wrote

Awesome thank you! Yeah. It's odd because it really doesn't bother my garage much when it rains. Our neighborhood has those little sloped curbs so most of the water is coming from rain landing on the driveway/yard.

I'll check this guy out I don't think I've seen him out thank you!

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ThoughtlessUphill t1_jdrtv64 wrote

French drain through your driveway so the pool has a place to go and any drain water coming down your driveway won’t flow into your garage. It would start where you drew the blue circle and said it pools

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tuckedfexas t1_jdrybqp wrote

Looking at that slope, he's gonna have to put a basin in as well. That drain box is 10" deep and fills up really fast. the PVC "french drains" only work if they have somewhere to take the water.

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tuckedfexas t1_jdrz7zl wrote

Everyone has a good start, corrugated sock pipe inside french drain etc etc. Thats great, but the water doesn't have anywhere to be stored until it can disperse.

With that slope, and your downspout connected you're going to need to dig a basin if you cant get rid of the water somewhere else. NDS makes a really easy to use product called a flow-well that I've used hundreds of times with great results. It basically just lets you dig out a big hole and it'll hold like 50 gallons by itself. You're still going to have to wrap it in good weed fabric, I would always just dig a big hole and then line the hole, drop in the flow well, and backfill inside the fabric with 4" rock to make an even bigger basin.

That water is just gonna fill up a french drain that doesn't have anywhere to dump to, they aren't magical unfortuantely.

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Barqueefa t1_jdrzxwq wrote

I don't really have any help but the lawn looks great, bro

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Llohr t1_jds0u5j wrote

Why fix it? Bought a new edger you can't wait to use? Sidewalk isn't sufficiently overrun by grass?

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ConstructionFar8570 t1_jds3e55 wrote

So they left you with a French drain and you are not happy with how it flows??? Take out the small pebbles and rocks clean them and replace. It should be fine they didn’t have fabric 1000 years ago either.

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putriidx OP t1_jds4umj wrote

Would it be fine to have another small box drain or something similar at the beginning of the driveway (maybe a channel drain if it can work) and have it connect to the current box drain and the downspout?

From where this box drain is I believe it connects to another one or two downspouts and travels down a pretty steep slope and off into my backyard in a area we don't use. It currently can handle the water it does get even when this rock area is working so it may not be overrun..maybe.

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tuckedfexas t1_jds5e03 wrote

Oh gotcha, I misread another comment and thought you didn’t have anywhere to run the water. You can throw a drain box in, they make “socks” for them that are going to fill up pretty quickly with sediment but it’ll do the job for one area. You’d still have to connect it with solid pipe to the other run

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putriidx OP t1_jds5fcp wrote

Yeah so for the driveway it's got a "lip" I can take a pic if needed. It's one of those neighborhoods that has a half-pipe shaped edging at the end of everyone's yard that runs along and empties into storm drains wherever they are. I don't think I have ever seen water spill over that, and then the top of my driveway also has a "hump" to it. Our driveway is actually shitty we don't even drive down it because it's too steep and short lol.

I don't actually have an issue with water getting into my garage unless the downpour is really heavy and even then it isn't too bad. On the other side of my driveway we have a downspout that goes down and into another section of our backyard, but it's currently sitting higher than the driveway due to terrain but could be fixed. I don't know if cutting into the concrete would be more trouble than it's worth honestly.

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putriidx OP t1_jds5q6x wrote

I actually did some work on the other side of the driveway and used this rock system to drain it away. It was a lot of dirt and clay so it kinda stayed mucky. I was hoping the rain would help wash it away but that didn't happen lol

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hoopdizzle t1_jds6v19 wrote

House and walkway are beautiful. I'd relax and be happy this is the worst you've got. Needless to say, bigger problems will come up eventually. Sincerely, 100-year old house owner.

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MmmPeopleBacon t1_jds8dmb wrote

Every one is giving complicated solutions that won't fix the underlying problem. Nothing about this drain is inherently flawed from drainage perspective. Will I clog maybe but most of it looks fine and free if clogs the issue with the pooling by the drive way is that the area in the blue circle is a low spot. What probably happened is that water flowing to that spot and then draining slowly and eventually pooling cause that portion of the drain/driveway/sidewalk to settle so it is a localized low spot. (either that or it was graded incorrectly initially) Finding a way to elevate that area relative to the surrounding area will fix your flow issues. You could also reslope the whole drain if that's easier.

People saying replace it with a French Drain don't actually know what a French Drain is or what they are talking about because this is technically a type of French Drain.

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irish_love t1_jds94a1 wrote

I just put in a new cement pad driveway, and at the transition from cement to aggregate I put a perforated pipe in front of the slab with drain rock, fabric sleeve, some extra drain fabric, and a clean out. Works great so far and I can keep it clean with that clean out.

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plotinus99 t1_jdsb273 wrote

You can redo the French drain network. Add the 2nd box. That will help for sure.

I'm a retired contractor and had several jobs somewhat similar though clearly not exactly... IME The best long term solution was to re landscape, redo some of the concrete and put a permanent drain in a welled out concrete section with a cleanout. The cleanout is really important.

I also don't hate the idea of putting in a little retaining wall and if you want to diy it, it's not as hard as you might think.

Good luck

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Felipelocazo t1_jdsejzo wrote

When you are in clay soils, it is best to use astm c33 sand (concrete sand) instead of gravel. You would simply redig the trench and replace the pipe and gravel, no need for geotextile. The same system is used in dams. Their solution wasn’t too bad, you could probably fix it by digging a narrow trench between the gravel and grass and filling with the sand I just mentioned.

You pictures and description aren’t clear as to what the problem is. Does the pipe not drain anymore? Can you not clean the pipe out? Which way does this drain? It sounds like you have an issue with an outlet that freely drains. Make sure the land is clearly draining away from the outlet. The drainage sock thing others mentioned is for amateurs, not engineers. A graded filter around the perforated pipe is what you need.

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HomChkn t1_jdshh13 wrote

you have gotten some ok advice but look at a trench/channel drain. The previous owner installed one and it is kind of fun to watch the water flow.

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IAmSnort t1_jdsn4o2 wrote

Did someone say french drains?

This guy's channel shows so many different situations. And he takes the time to explain why he does what he does.

EDIT: and someone already linked his channel. But it is worst doing it twice.

Corrugated is the WORST to move water.

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Lovely_bones620 t1_jdspj6r wrote

This isn’t helpful to your situation but i would add some pretty crystal and gemstones ✨

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SadlyReturndRS t1_jdsr8cr wrote

Tbh, I'd have just dug up the rocks, filled it with some nice absorbent soil, and plant a row of flowers. If the trench is particularly deep, keep a layer of large rocks at the bottom, soil and flowers on top.

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Words_Are_Hrad t1_jdsui0j wrote

>It is not falling out of the sky

You know that stuff called dust that accumulates on everything? It's not just spontaneously coming into existence... Now imagine that over hundreds of square feet all being washed to a specific point by rain over and over and over again...

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ShadowJay98 t1_jdsxci7 wrote

This is probably gonna sound like you're making a bigger trench, but hear me out: shovel it.

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Carter12320 t1_jdsymmj wrote

Here's what I would do

1.dig down 10 inches the whole length

  1. Deal with excavated material

  2. Install big o with sock ( make sure you have a gradual slope towards your outflow point)

  3. Get some 3/4 clear gravel fill hole leaving 2 inches to grade.

  4. Landscaper fabric on top of clear gravel

  5. But some nice river rock or pea gravel for the last 2 inches.

And if you want some type of barrier the plastic edging is really good for containing whatever rock you throw in there. Hope this helps.

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putriidx OP t1_jdt4b2y wrote

Hey yeah let me try to explain!

So the trench here is simply rocks and a corrugate pipe, but the pipe is cut horizontally so it's basically just a "u" shaped pipe.

The rocks lead to that box drain and don't go into it unless there's enough force pushing it because 1. It pools at the beginning and 2. I think the trench may be lower than the box drain.

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Tom_Traill t1_jdt78pu wrote

We live in California in the Central Valley where it is generally flat. Our soil is sandy and drains very well.

We don't have rain gutters on the house. We have a metal roof.

I left an empty trashcan in the driveway, happened to have it under the eave of the roof.

After a day of rain, the plastic trash can had 24" of water in it. It all makes total sense when you think about it, that the rain that falls on the roof has to go somewhere. None the less, I was amazed.

So, here are my thoughts on your problem...

The steep driveway is draining into the corrugated pipe covered with stones. It follows the walkway, then the planting bed in front of the house, and towards the lower area in the distance in the first picture.

Not exactly sure where you are, you say NW Georgia. Chattanooga is close. The annual rainfall in Chattanooga is 55 inches. I'll assume your driveway is 20 ft. by 30 ft. That means that, over a year, you have 2,750 cubic feet of water flowing through that drain. That is 20,570 gallons a year, on average. That is a lot of water. I'm not a specialist in this area (drainage), but you Need to become one, or find a very good one locally.

What I read into your description makes me think that you may not have appreciated the magnitude of your problem that they previous owners were faced with when they installed this system.

PS: I have not even mentioned all the water coming off the roof via the downspout.

You've got some good advice in this forum.

Sorry all I can do is put some numbers on the magnitude of the problem.

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adequatefishtacos t1_jdtd72j wrote

Use a strip drain instead of the big EZ drains or perf pipe. They collect water better and have a smaller profile so they’re easier to install

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Its_Curse t1_jdtdli5 wrote

Honestly this would be my move too. As far as I can tell from OPs comments, it's not really working or solving any problems now (please let me know if I missed something though, it doesn't sound like OP has water management issues even with that yard slope aside from this drain pipe clogging). Why go through a ton of work and potentially multiple fixes and digging up the yard to get this set up to continue to not really do much of anything? I'd pull the whole thing out and just let the grass move up to the edge of the sidewalk.

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WalkerMidwestRanger t1_jdtdqj1 wrote

  • Get a pipe that that isn't cut in half.
  • Dig the rocks up, shake them off, and put them in buckets.
  • Check the whole is deep enough, dig down if not. Probably want 6-8" at 15 degree slope to exit
  • use water to wash your rocks, the dirt, dust, and fines can clog your cloth and youre in for real work ahead, so might as well do it the best you can.
  • lay down the magical cloth, pack it a bit, and confirm the grade to the exit.
  • put down an inch or two of rock and compact. Lay your pipe. He he... Check the grade, this is the last easy chance.
  • pack in rock, firmly, around the pipe, don't crush the pipe.
  • firmly add an inch over the pipe, add another layer of magical cloth.
  • add the rest of your rock over the top cloth. Compact every inch. Be careful until the rock can protect the drain tile pipe.
  • drink
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MeateaW t1_jdtfxjp wrote

It is clearly a bad french drain. (or an attempt at a DIY french drain).

An attempt where they forgot you are supposed to install the pipe upside down.

Seriously, if they just flipped the pipe it would probably work well enough.

The idea of the underside is to remain clear, so as water rises it can easily drain away down the kept-clear section of path.

In this instance, they put the pipe right-side up, and filled it with rocks (???)

Yes, most french drains use a full pipe with holes in the bottom - but the half-pipe should theoretically work well enough if installed correctly and in a manner that it doesn't flip upside down like this.

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MeateaW t1_jdtgx8b wrote

So, that U shaped pipe is supposed to be installed like an n instead of a u

That way; it has a big gap underneath that cannot fill with rocks (and sediment).

You put rocks underneath and rocks above and it becomes the french drain it was always meant to be!

As the water level rises above the bottom of the n shaped pipe, it flows into the pipe and hopefully down the hill toward the box drain.

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Tom_Traill t1_jdthgms wrote

I'm not an expert. Perhaps they developed a drainage problem and this is how the fixed it.

A drain following the contour of the drainage line in the grass would be a larger project. Makes sense, though.

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Felipelocazo t1_jdtjktl wrote

I would dig it all out 4” below the drain pipe and gravel, perforate the side of the box drain, then lay the clean concrete sand for those 4” including and envelope around the drain box. Then top the area that had the drain pipe with whatever you want, that is permeable, ie the gravel cleaned out. The sand will carry the water. This is all assuming the drain box goes somewhere with positive drainage.it wouldn’t hit to put sand below the box too, and poke holes in the bottom so there is no standing water.

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RobotSlaps t1_jdto5zr wrote

I kept having the same kind of problem in my old location. There was a lot of sand around I kept getting sand in all my drains. Anywhere I put corrigated or french drain, the bottom third of the pipe would fill up with sand and flow rates would just plummet. My situation was different though. I replaced most of my corrugated with straight clean PVC and give it enough drop the the sediment went with the water. Of course I was going to an NDS drywell so the angles will whatever I wanted them to be.

If you can figure out a way to stop the erosion, digging it out thoroughly , gravel, sock pipe, gravel would be great. In the same vein if you could get erosion under control dig it out gravel French drain gravel would be quite reasonable.

But if you can't get the sediment under control any type of underground conveyance is just going to eventually get plugged.

I would suspect the proper solution would be to regrade what's there with a retaining wall, but that's edging more out of DIY and into getting a proper professional to tell you what angles to actually use.

For a quicker cheaper fix, You might want to just construct something that's easier maintenance. Do a concrete gutter then you could just blow it out with a pressure washer.

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iRamHer t1_jdtvjzz wrote

eventually. you'll end up removing and redoing it eventually.

to prolong this, you can make a wrap to give more filter surface, and use a proper landscape fabric. a double punched non woven fabric is what you want. 4oz is a happy medium, less will allow more flow but isn't as heavy, 6/8, and higher oz will be less permeable and won't pass water as quickly.

to be fair, you don't use a French drain to take care of surface water. op should just run a trench that can be easily cleaned if maintenance is priority and ground water isn't a concern. can run a French drain underneath if needed.

in a French drain you ALWAYS want to use a fabric. even in heavy clay. again, many people are better served by proper slope and surface drains for the bulk of their water, which prolongs fabric health.

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Calmyoursoul t1_jdu1vmr wrote

I can tell you right now that is there for a reason.

My buddies basement had some massive water leak issues and he could either install weeping tiles which he didn't have the money for, redo the window wells (didn't have the money for but he did manually next year and I helped) or create a rock channel drain to divert any rsiny water from the house to the street. The rocks are there to slow the seepage into the soil and allow the water to flow.

I would think twice about removing that channel or at least ask the last homeowner why they did that

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MalahatMuffins t1_jdu4578 wrote

If at all possible, I would recommend disconnecting your downspout from this and running it to somewhere far enough from your house that it doesn’t cause you problems.

This could be to ground, or to a soak-away, but ideally somewhere at least several meters from your house and where the natural grading conveys storm flows away, and not toward your house.

I never recommend roof leaders connected directly to a drain (and this drain seems terrible in its own right). This is because sediments and organics and roofing materials among other stuff inevitably end up going down the spout and prematurely clogging the drain.

If you have to have this downspout connect to a drain, I would recommend that you have an intermediate catch basin before flows go into a drain or further underground conveyance. This way with annual maintenance you can clean out all the crap before it gets out of reach.

The clean out suggestion I saw from another is not a bad idea, but may just push the problem further down the line (unless close enough to that grated basin I see in one of the pictures that it can push all the crap there).

As for the existing drain area itself. If the general area around there has flooding issues, I would recommend a perforated PVC pipe (holes pointing down), graded towards that grate at 2%, encapsulated in clear drain rock and wrapped all around with non woven geotextile.

If the only reason the area has water issues is because of the roof leader, then I would just run a non perforated run of PVC pipe to the grated area (but again, only if you can’t discharge it to ground somewhere better as mentioned above).

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never_reddit_sober t1_jdu4zzn wrote

You could dig a "dry well" at the low spot as a simple fix- it would require digging a large hole, lining it with water pregnant fabric, and filling with river rock. This will eliminate pooling as it gives water time to permeate into the soil. I did this and it completely stopped my pooling. The size of your hole should be enough to collect any excess water for reference mine was about 10 wheelchair full. As for your trench, others have good suggestions

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BumbleCute t1_jduhxaq wrote

Suggest you also ask in civil engineering subreddits. Some drainage experts might have some good solutions

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TreeTopsToo t1_jdw1jlv wrote

When you put the sock pipe in, I would try to round the corner at more of a curve and not the 45 degree angle. The water will want to go straight at the bottom and you want it flowing around the curve. I think that spot will be where you have issues no matter what you do so that might be where you take the rock off the top each year and hose it out there. If you find not an issue, wont need to keep doing it.

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