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pirateduck t1_ix9i4c6 wrote

The basics.

  • Use a plastic vapor barrier to keep moisture from coming up from the ground.
  • If you can, add vents to the other side of the crawlspace. This will help keep moisture at bay.
  • Seal all the perforations between the conditioned space and the crawlspace. This will help with air and moisture exfiltration.
  • Insulate your plumbing as the heat coming from the house will be reduced, so the risk of a frozen pipe goes up. Yes, even in Georgia.
  • Use R30 unfaced batts/rolls as they will fit between your floor joists and the added cost is worth the extra R value. You can use rigid wires designed to fit between joists to keep the insulation up close to the subfloor.
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poccnr OP t1_ix9jtd9 wrote

Plastic is down but needs to be tidied up.

Will be difficult to add vents to the other side as it is about at grade.

Pretty good separation between crawl and conditioned spaces

Yes, need to insulate the plumbing.

Thanks for the recommendation for the R30. This is a small job so cost is not really an issue.

Confirming that they should be unfaced due to it being vented? Or is there another reason to use unfaced?

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pirateduck t1_ix9lqr5 wrote

Unfaced because of moisture concerns. Faced insulation acts a a vapor barrier and generally faces the warm side. Unfaced will let the moisture that does get through even after you go through the effort of sealing up the cracks migrate from hot to cold. Otherwise you can run into mold issues. Even if you get faced insulation and put the face up next to the floor, any moisture that gets through is now trapped between the floor and the insulation.

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