I'm attempting to replace an exterior light with an outlet. (Picture #1 is how I it was originally configured, with the wires portruiding through the hole to wire an exterior light. Is there a name for that metal thing? is it legit? half of it *was covered by shingles.)

The immediate problem is that my house has two layers of siding (a previous owner decided to install shingles on top of clapboard, instead of removing the clapboard). The outlet box I'm dealing with is original to the house, meaning it was placed in relation to the original siding, which now has a 2nd layer of siding on top if it making it "deeper" into the house exterior. (Pictures #2, #3).

I've cut back the 2 layers of siding to enlarge the opening around the original box, and plan to insert a PVC mounting block for the outlet and outlet cover. (Pictures #4a, #4b).

My thought is to use a box extender to keep the outlet connection inside the box. The pictured steel 1 gang box extension seems to work best from the options I've found, in that it matches the dimensions/footprint of the original and has about the right depth to bring the box to the surface of the 2nd layer of siding. (Pictures #5a, #5b, #4c). (Noted that the opening in the mounting block is currently too small.)

My question is for the electrically inclined...is this the right approach? does this all sound right? Any problems? Any issues using a steel extender vs. a plastic extender? I'm located in the Boston area for code related considerations.

Comments

1998f1504x4 t1_iypj3mo wrote on December 3, 2022 at 3:41 AM

#850,301

What you are doing is fine. You'll want to get that broken screw out of the bottom mounting tab on the original box.

Adam2013 t1_iypm2mn wrote on December 3, 2022 at 4:07 AM

#850,418

You have no ground conductor there, but but since it is outside, you'll need a weatherproof enclosure and a GFI receptacle anyway.

GFI will take care of the grounding issue.

Flolania t1_iypm7ru wrote on December 3, 2022 at 4:08 AM

#850,425

metal box = metal extender.

ithaqua34 t1_iypmlcy wrote on December 3, 2022 at 4:12 AM

#850,439

See if you can get a plastic bushing for the hole that the wires go through there, especially if that plate is metal.

Dumguy1214 t1_iyqgojy wrote on December 3, 2022 at 10:29 AM

#851,244

Replying to Adam2013 (#850,418)

GFI is new to me, a outlet with ground with out a ground wire

good stuff

you need to go to a house built in 1950 to not have ground here, even then they have been wired with ground to the kitchen per code

JAgodspeed OP t1_iyqtgt9 wrote on December 3, 2022 at 1:14 PM

#851,676

Replying to 1998f1504x4 (#850,301)

Yeah I was thinking about that and I'm not sure the best approach. The screw in the top tab was long af.

JAgodspeed OP t1_iyqtinz wrote on December 3, 2022 at 1:15 PM

#851,678

Replying to Dumguy1214 (#851,244)

This one was built exactly in 1950!

MHinSATX t1_iyqycg7 wrote on December 3, 2022 at 2:01 PM

#851,894

On that broken screw, if you can get a needle nose locking pliers on it, you may be able to unscrew it. If you can't, use a Dremel type tool to cut a notch and then use a screwdriver to remove it. Use some type of spray loosening solvent, WD-40 or similar. Otherwise everything else is looking good, at least to me.

Face999 t1_iys6oqh wrote on December 3, 2022 at 7:20 PM

#853,726

Are you pulling new wire? I'd guess that is a switch loop. Google it.

JAgodspeed OP t1_iytz8wf wrote on December 4, 2022 at 3:32 AM

#855,896

Replying to MHinSATX (#851,894)

Appreciate the thoughts!

BurrrritoBoy t1_iyu0z0d wrote on December 4, 2022 at 3:47 AM

#855,945

Replace the box with the broken off screw and mount the new box flush with your new surface.