Question on Mosaic Tile Backing

Submitted by lesterd88 t3_10bge4e in DIY

Hi All,

Hopefully this isn't as dumb of a question as I feel like it might be, but I've not had any luck finding any information on this. I'm about to start an install of a tile backsplash in my kitchen, my first ever tile project. I'm using this tile from Lowe's since I got a cheap deal on clearance, and it fits our style. I've considered using Mussel Bound to do the project, but I'm getting somewhat iffy on that idea. Partially because of the way the mosaic is adhered in sheets. When shopping for the tile sheets, I'm used to seeing sheets backed by something like a nylon or metal mesh type sheet on the back, which makes sense to me. Instead, these are made into sheets like this with the tiles arranged on the sheet using some kind of gum/glue/putty material. It's resilient and mailable enough to bend and flex without cracking, but also separates pretty easily with some flexing.

My concern is this putty stuff basically means the MusselBound is out as the tile sheets have this gum/glue stuff instead of a uniform surface, which to me means that the actual tile isn't going to adhere uniform enough to the adhesive pad. Also with the adhesion to the pad being activated by pressure, I'm afraid if I don't get enough bite the tile isn't going to make good enough contact. That makes me question its longevity. I do have Mastic Type 1 as a option to do the traditional install style and I'm fine with doing that assuming it alleviates this concern, but if I could avoid the extra mess and set time I'd be all for that.

Am I on the right track on the adhesion question? Can anyone tell me what type of sheeting (or the proper term for what I'm describing) is for reference?

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Comments

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JerseyWiseguy t1_j4a35z7 wrote

I've done quite a few tiled kitchen backsplashes. I always use AcrylPro tile adhesive (available at Home Depot and elsewhere), if the individual tiles are smaller (as yours are). The stuff is just super easy to work with. It's pre-mixed, but it doesn't dry out quickly. It grips immediately, but you can move tiles around even hours later. It's got a smooth, even consistency, like creamy peanut butter, so it's easy to spread. Simple water cleanup. When it's fully cured, it's very durable and long-lasting, just like any other mastic.

So, it's more work than a self-stick mat, but not as difficult as typical tile mastic, yet it ultimately holds as well as typical tile mastic. Another option to consider.

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lesterd88 OP t1_j4a3n3w wrote

That's interesting I hadn't heard of that one yet. I'm looking at a video on it now. Might pick some of that up. Thanks for the tip!

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dominus_aranearum t1_j4a5mkq wrote

Just make sure that whatever you use for the tile you've selected is white, not grey.

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WhenDid_IGet_ThisOld t1_j4artn1 wrote

That's exactly what I used to tile a fireplace with mosaics from floor to ceiling. Love that stuff and it was affordable and easy to use. Holding strong three years later....

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Casiometa t1_j4a3xg3 wrote

I just use mastic. Be careful not to put much as ot will go between the grout lines names it a najor pain to clean/grout. Don't worry about bond that stuff holds very well. 3rd world country just use mud...you will be fine.

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Yummy-Beetle-Juice t1_j4a6q15 wrote

I would use reinforced thinset or mastic with a notched trowel . I could see one issue with sticky paper, if you accidentally set the tile slightly crooked, are you going to be able to adjust it? It the tile is attached to a woven mat, I would certainly not use the sticky paper.

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DoubleDongle-F t1_j4a77ll wrote

Anything wrong with good old thin-set mortar? It's more work, but it's not super hard. With the quantities you're using, you could easily mix it with a stick or a common power drill. And it wouldn't have any of the problems you're worrying about.

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kalgrae t1_j4c89yi wrote

Either the mastic or thinset so you get proper coverage on the tile and have the ability to adjust.

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