Recent comments in /f/personalfinance

Puzzleheaded-Duty546 t1_jegr95q wrote

You should be making quarterly tax payments if self-employed. Each payment would be 25% of last year's tax bill with any additional amount owed added to the 4th payment (April 15). Now look at your personal spending habits to see what you can live without like fast food, Starbucks, cable/satellite TV, various Apps, beer, wine, booze, fancy meals, etc. All of that adds up to a considerable amount of money that can be used to pay off the CC with the smallest balance then move on to the next CC. I was a painting contractor for 30 years so took advantage of home office deductions and making purchases that could be considered as business expenses. You can deduct motor vehicle costs by having your company name and website painted on the rear sides and trunk. Some use decals made by online signage companies. The permanent lettering gets you off the hook for keeping a mileage log. I did that to my wife's minivans over the years to take straight line deductions for it.

You need to pay your creditors besides yourself. May want to look into having an accountant or CPA handle your books to keep you out of financial trouble and provide you with more for running the business and free time for yourself.

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Ruminant t1_jegr40m wrote

The classic answer is municipal bonds, preferably through a diversified mutual fund or ETF. A municipal money market mutual fund would work best as a cash equivalent. Since your state does not have an income tax, you can choose a nationally-diversified fund rather than one focused on a specific state.

You'll want to run the numbers to see whether the (typically lower) returns on the municipal fund give a higher after-tax yield than paying federal taxes on other options. But I imagine a 35% federal rate is high enough that you'll benefit from a municipal bond fund.

Since you already use Fidelity: https://www.fidelity.com/mutual-funds/fidelity-funds/municipal-money-market

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BadamPshh OP t1_jegr3r5 wrote

Agreed and she did ask if I got that I think she called it a rebate credit, I don't remember for sure if I got it but I probably did.

If that went unreported when I filed, I suppose TurboTax may have assumed that I didn't get it and listed that as an expected refund because of that. could that explain it?

Still I don't understand why they can't tell me that that's what it was if that was the case. Also that was not listed in the possible reasons that they gave. All the reasons had to do with having a much higher income or someone claiming me as a dependent.

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Ggfd8675 t1_jegqmy1 wrote

> My plan at this point is to switch all our savings to the employer accounts and completely stop contributing to the trading account, just leaving it there until retirement, unless one day we make enough to max out our annual contributions. Thoughts?

Sounds like a good plan. You can in effect shovel money from current savings to tax-deferred retirement accounts by maxing your current year contributions and using your existing savings to cover any budget shortfall. If your employer offers a post-tax plan that allows for in-service Roth rollovers, you can do a mega backdoor Roth IRA and convert up to 66,000 this year.

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Temporary_Bobcat_947 OP t1_jegqkl0 wrote

Yeah at this point I’m about to just go to the dealership tomorrow and see what they can finance me and the interest. But the main thing on what I’m having trouble dictating is if I should ask for more money on the truck I’d be trading in. The truck I have now that I’m trying to trade in is a 2018 Chevrolet Colorado. I bought it for 24,000 and it has 48,000 miles left on it. And I still have 18,000 left to pay on it. So what I could do from what my banker told me is do an nada where it’s a clean trade and they pay off my loan amount and I get the same amount back for a new loan. But I’m thinking it’s worth more than 18,000 do you think I should negotiate this have them pay off the loan and then some?

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