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Sure you can afford it, but buying a new car vs one 2 or 3 years old will extend your retirement a couple years.

You say your single, so what family do you need to transport? Don’t forget another chunk for yearly excise tax. I have lived in a city, you don’t want a new car in the city.

TLDR: You can afford it, but it is not the wisest decision to do so.

No. Under $30k is poverty in most parts of the country.

You can make more working fast food in a lot of MSAs.

appreciate it, thank you.

You're absolutely right, but as the commenter said, you may be barred from paying too much too soon. Check your contract

Thatd be the best bet, other than keeping the car lol. Get as much as you can and roll over the positive equity into the next vehicle.

Your parents are taking care of you financially and you have them as a safety net.

It would be pretty low risk to buy an expensive car with the cash you have.

As I mentioned in my other comment, I would suggest studying business or marketing or any other similar area of study. Having the ability to recognize trends and tell a story with your findings is the most important skill to have. Being curious and asking the “why.” It’s also really important to be proficient in excel as you will be using it daily to manipulate and maintain data. Data visualization tools like Power BI and Tableau are also widely used. Taking courses and getting certifications on those tools will really set you apart. Do some research on common data reporting tools like IRI (now called Circana), Nielsen, Numerator, and Atlas. I believe it’s possible to get certifications in those as well. Feel free to message me if you have any other questions.

Rains a lot here too. I bike commuted for three or four years in all weather and only got hit by one bus and not on a day it was raining. Cars are dangerous too.

The term you are looking for is Coast Fire:

https://walletburst.com/tools/coast-fire-calc/

Possible you two have the same insurance company?

If you can make extra payments without penalty, then once the balance is over you are done. And paying extra not only gets it over faster but even saves you money overall with less interest.

> that would make the principal AND interest owed per month lower, correct?

Monthly payments stay the same (except maybe last payment), just end sooner.

at entry level, this would be very low

Each year I am in a similar situation. I am a freelancer and never know how much I will make in the year. On years where I hit 80-90k income, I owe 6-8k in subsidy repayment.
$10k sounds about right in subsidies that you need to pay back.
You can get another tax guy, but you will still owe something.

rich dad poor dad (personal finance), costar for real estate (commercial real estate news), intelligent investor (can be a bit of hard read without much financial knowledge), richest man in Babylon, changing world orders & big debt crises by ray dalio, physiology of money, why nations fail, barbarians at the gate (LBO).

Those are the finance books/websites I can remember I liked off the top of my head. I would also recommend finding a way to get Bloomberg to just keep up date on thing. I managed to get around the pay wall.

If you had no income is better to file jointly. Medical is limited by income. Since you had no income you will not get a refund.

I think you're in a good position financially. Congratulations! But it's never a good idea to take on this kind of loan payment unemployed no matter how Bright the future is. If it's not mandatory I would not do it right now. Just my opinion. Good luck to you

Payment plan with the IRS and have your employer deduct a little more from your paycheck for taxes so that next year you get a little back and that can go towards the balance you owe.

The IRS payment plans can be easily set up online, I currently have two of them and my husband has like 5.

Not normal. The other party’s insurance either pays for everything to your satisfaction or file a claim with your own insurer.

Why did you get the policy to begin with? What made you first think it was a good plan for you, and what made you now think it’s not?

I don’t know anything about your financial situation or if it’s a good plan for you or not, but that’s a pretty drastic 180. Whole life insurance definitely requires a commitment to make it work at all.

So bank loans charge interest, let's say 10%. The bank gets it.

A 401k loan charges interest to the owner, but goes back to the account. 401k loans are charging 9-10% right now versus paying out to the bank.

Depends and your lifestyle and how you want to lie while retired.

Best way to look at it is calculate your comfortable monthly expenses (housing, utilities, groceries, eating out, car note/insurance/gas, subscription services, etc.) and multiply that by how long you think you'll live post retirement age without a job (hopefully a lot). This would be the minimum you should have in your account.

Example: If your monthly expenses now are $3700 for your lifestyle, you retire at 67 and want to live until 97, you'd want to have at minimum $1,332,000 to live your current lifestyle during that timespan. This doesn't include contributions to savings account, build emergency funds, medical expenses, and other discretionary spending. Bump up your monthly expenses and do the calculation again.

Why so heavily tilted towards US large caps?

>As in, is this actually worth it to continue putting money in the TDF,

When did you start investing in it? Was any of it rolled over from another retirement account?

A best friend from childhood - effective brother I suppose

May of 2022 would've been a low interest rate

By "height of the market" he means home price