Simplex 1 and simplex 2. Both can infect both locations. One is usually the lips and the other is usually downstairs.

But yeah, they're both herpes. And both a life long illness. And fairly easy to avoid. If it's got blisters, don't touch.

I'm not sure how this relates to my thought, but okay!

Lord-ofLeviathans said supposed to. He didn't say they actually do this.

You say "no one watches the news anymore" and I assume you're talking about news on a television. Then you say "clicks and likes" and I'm just confused.

Having said that, to my knowledge, "the news" was never in the business of providing solutions. A reporter reports. A journalist writes. An anchor anchors. They are not supposed to be activists, though some modern ones lean that direction.

Finally some news that everyone can agree is a step in the right direction! Now let's get the actual people involved too.

I'm still looking forward to federal level legalization. I think it's coming. Just slow to happen.

I've had trouble with coffee filters not draining fast enough. But I like cheese cloth for draining bacon. Gets nearly all of the tiny bits out and is very quick.

That window "frame" is basically a thin piece of material that is used to trim out the window. I don't know how thick it is, but behind it is likely lumber framing. The screws that you use should go through that trim material and in to the lumber framing for the strongest connection.

You can use normal wood screws or perhaps even better, interior construction screws. Just stay away from the black drywall screws. They're brittle. Calculate a 1/2" for the trim material and at least an inch of embedment in to the framing lumber behind it. So that's a 1 1/2" or 2" screw. A pan head screw might look best.

The issue you have with splitting here is that you did not pre-drill the hole. Trim material is often a bit weak/brittle, especially toward the end of the board where your screw is. The drill bit size that you use should be about the same size as the shaft of the screw you want to use. NOT the full size of the screw and it's threads. If I’m doubt, make the drill bit size a bit smaller than a bit bigger. Your pre-drilling would only need to go through the trim material. You do not need to pre-drill the stud behind it as well. Though you are welcome to as it won’t harm anything.

Don't be afraid to say "no" to a low-ball offer. Price it higher than you expect to sell it for with the assumption they're going to ask you to come down. Know your bottom dollar price and do not budge.

A good buyer will start nit-picking at things like, "Oh, I see there's a scuff on this tire here. I'll have to replace that". They are saying these things because they want a better deal.

Hopefully we'll see more reporting about this in the near future. I, like you, want some solid details.

I'd recommend that your first step is to re-do the plastic. Find some 15 mil somewhere (or similar thickness) and spread it out over the entire surface and even up the concrete walls. This helps to keep down any moisture seeping up from the ground. Tape all seams.

Next, seal all holes through that subfloor with expanding foam and/or zip tape (or similar). Also, seal any air gaps around the sill plate.

Next, spray foam IS the best in a lot of ways. It would cut down on any draftiness by 99.9% and increase the warm feeling of that floor by a ton. BUT - it's expensive. You wouldn't need to do it at full depth to get desired results. But 4-8 inches would be good.

If spray foam isn't in the budget (call some local places), go with some r-21 to r-30 fiberglass insulation. Faced or unfaced it probably doesn't matter too much as long as the humidity stays low-ish in that crawl space.

I'd also recommend getting an accurate hygrometer down there for a week or two to see what the levels of humidity are. If they're consistently low, you can probably stop here. If they are consistently above 60% or so, I'd recommend a dehumidifier that has it's own pump so you can just turn it on and not have to fuss with it when dumping it out.

I'm not aware of any running shoes, sneakers, basketball shoes, or high heels that have stitched soles. But yes, boots with stitched soles generally last longer and are repairable by a cobbler or by the company that made them.

The crocs are going to be very happy about this!

Oh, glad to hear about the termites not being a big problem. I think the rest is just up to you. If you dig down the top soil (at least the grass layer at minimum), you'll likely have your 4 inches of perimeter right there.

If you chose to not take out the top soil, you have the option of extending your gravel "pad" by a foot or so all around. This will naturally taper off to grass and likely wouldn't be an issue later. But if you wanted a cleaner look, I'm confident that your idea of using pressure treated lumber or blocks would work well.

Your gravel will likely not put much pressure against the lumber or blocks and push them out.

You're wanting to put down ground contact rated pressure treated lumber for the ground contact pressure treated runners to sit on? Seems unnecessarily redundant. Especially if it's going to sit on gravel.

If you're in an area with a lot of rainfall and/or freeze/thaw cycles and want the shed to last a LONG time and never settle from where it started, I'd recommend taking the top soil up and then laying down the 4 inches of #57 (1/2" to 3/4"). Level it and compact it. Then you can either put the shed (with runners) directly on top of that or build it up more with concrete blocks if you like. Taking the top soil up is important because it's easily compressible. If you left it there's a good chance that your shed will sink a little, given enough time. But with those runners being pressure treated, they should be able to stay dry enough sitting on top of gravel.

What I'd be most worried about in my area is termites under there. They'll easily mud tunnel up to the shed from the ground. So if you're in a termite area, and most of the US is, I'd recommend treating (or having treated) the ground/gravel right before they put the shed down. Here's a map of the US termite zones if that helps.
https://www.termitestreatment.com/distribution-of-termites-in-usa/

I eat a lot of french fries. That explains why I've never had toe fungus, I guess.

/s