First make sure the charger is working by charging a different phone. Leave it on the charger for 24 hours and see if it takes a charge. When batteries go below a certain voltage their protection circuit disconnects them from the load. It may only trickle charge.

> he actually revived it

I don't know what that means. Ask him to do it again and give it a full charge. The battery or phone could be bad.

Use a thread locking compound which is designed to be more easily removed. Like Loctite Blue 242.

I'd drill a hole in the axle and add a cotter pin rather than thread it.

Pipe wrench is the next step. It will scratch the plastic, but so what.

> just make sure it breaks so that it still sticks out.

How does one do that?

>So if I move those connections into a metal junction box, can I place the single ground wire into the box, touching the sides of it, and it will then be grounded?

No. As I said, if the conduit is grounded, you can connect the ground to that box. You can't just install a metal box and expect it to magically be grounded. Otherwise run a ground back to the service panel.

Do not ground the neutral. Neutral and ground are bonded at the service panel. If the yellow romex goes to your gas stove, you need to connect the ground wire to ...ground! If the conduit is grounded, you can connect it to the metal box.

> I replaced our main thermostat which was pretty simple so guessing this would be about the same amount of work.

Sorry, that's not necessarily true. A furnace thermostat is a third party device designed to be replaced easily and uses low voltage standardized connections. Electric baseboard heater thermostats are usually line voltage high current devices that are double pole if used on a North American 240V circuit. Without seeing the model number (potato quality pic), or the wiring it isn't clear whether you have a low voltage or line voltage thermostat. If you are capable of safely replacing an outlet, you can probably replace this thermostat. The Honeywell Home CT410B is an example of what you may need.

>I think that the thermostat is a rheostat

Definitely not. If it was a rheostat it would be a power controller, not a thermostat. If it is a resistor, it is a low wattage potentiometer which controls an electronic circuit that senses temperature. Many electric thermostats use bimetallic strips which have an adjustable biasing spring or other means of adjusting the set point.

"Subzero" temperatures are common in the northern US.

> while 0°C is a very important temperature.

Only for water. Cars use antifreeze which, by itself, freezes at 0°F, but mixed properly with water it freezes at -40° (F or C).

That's a ballast, not a transformer. Replace it with an LED bulb which fits that form factor.

DIY do it yourself

DYI do yourself in?

A capacitor won't help at all. Look for "5V LED" or "12V LED" or whatever the supply is. The resistor has to be matched to the supply voltage.

Some LEDs have current limiting resistors built in. They are usually designed for 5V or 12V. Bare LEDs need some type of current limiting, either resistors or constant current supplies.

Looks like an incandescent Lumiline. An LED retrofit is in order.

That's not the outlet rating.

Use pliers to squeeze it together. They sell special tools to remove them but they aren't necessary.

Are you sure the water didn't enter on the outside of the pipe? You also need to screen it to keep critters from getting in there. Don't use two elbows get a proper cap.

There is a middle ground between building it from individual cells and buying an overpriced system from Jackery. Buy solar panels, charger, battery, inverter separately. You weren't going to build solar panels and a charger from parts. A Tesla battery has a professionally engineered battery pack which very rarely catches fire. ICE vehicles probably catch fire more often. DIY batteries catch fire much more often. Beginner DIY batteries are just about guaranteed to suffer a few shorts during or after construction. A 200Ah battery will make a huge fire very quickly if shorted.

I implore you to buy a battery pack which suits your needs. I am an experienced electronic technician who has worked on high voltage and high current power supplies, but the thought of building a large pack from individual cells scares the shit out of me. You're correct that you are going to need 268 cells based on a 4s67p pack of 3Ah cells. You also need a BMS capable of handling all those cells unless you're a complete idiot. In reality you should buy a 12V battery (or batteries if you want to get modular) which have built in BMS. You still need to wire up the solar panels and a decent solar charger. Plus an inverter if you plan to use AC. That is challenging enough for a beginner who claims to be "dumb as a bag of bricks". We both know that isn't true. Don't try to prove me wrong by building it from scratch.

Edit: whatever you do don't use lithium ion. Instead use lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO) They are far safer.

Start by connecting the motor to the battery directly with nothing else connected. If it doesn't work the motor is bad or the battery is dead. If it does work then the charge controller may be bad. Read the manual thoroughly.

This article is about earlier work in the field.

https://www.nist.gov/news-events/news/2021/03/nist-team-compares-3-top-atomic-clocks-record-accuracy-over-both-fiber-and