Thanks.

You will may have to purchase the diamond core bit in addition to the drill rental fee.

It could get pretty hot between the glass and EPS, but EPS has a melting point of 212° F (100° C) and an ignition temperature of 680°F (360°C). It won't get that hot.

Make sure the exterior vent is not clogged with leaves or a bird nest.

Never trust a non-contact tester. They can be used for troubleshooting, but for actual wiring work, use a multimeter. Non-contact testers can have false positives and false negatives.

You could make your own using a parallelogram design, but the manufactured one is a lot easier. Tool boxes and tackle boxes use them.

You could easily strip the soft brass by using too much torque.

There's two considerations. One is the fixture rating. An LED will certainly meet that because it is much lower power. The other is the temperature of the LED bulb. They rely on convection and radiation to cool. LEDs are far more efficient than incandescents but still only about 35% efficient. The other 65% is dissipated as heat. Many LEDs will overheat in an enclosed fixture.

Can an LED be used in an enclosed fixture? Yes, but only some brands. The issue is the amount of heat that can build up in the enclosed fixture. LED bulbs are very sensitive to heat; if the air in the enclosed fixture becomes too hot, it will shorten the life of the bulb.

>I have the feeling the generator's inverter is going to fry if i start & stop multiple times at 1000W.

What makes you believe that? The inverter is designed to switch polarity 100 or 120 times a second. Switching the load on/off frequently shouldn't be a problem. Power stations use inverters, too.

Buy a closet auger. It is an inexpensive short snake with rubber to protect the bowl from marks. BTW don't mix vinegar and baking soda. While not dangerous, they just neutralize each other. They make bubbles, but that does nothing to clean or clear plumbing.

Make sure you aren't using an LED in an enclosed fixture unless it is rated for it. Heat is a killer of LEDs and electronics in general.

LEDs flicker when they are failing or when driven by incompatible dimmers and other electronic controls. Your house wiring is probably fine. If it was bad it would be bad for any type of light. Fluorescent bulbs can also be incompatible with dimmers and electronic controls.

That is a soldered connection. The O.D. of 1/2" copper pipe is 5/8".

As long as the inverter has an ON/OFF switch, you can leave it connected. Make sure you fuse the battery output.

I would charge them together. Two chargers mean you have to disconnect/charge/reconnect the 2 packs each time. And the 2 packs must be at the same state of charge when paralleled.

> if one battery can handle the surge of a table saw

That depends on how much current the battery can provide. The Ah rating is not a measure of power or energy. Ah times volts is energy in watt-hours. You need a high enough Continuous Discharge Rating (CDR) for the peak load. 15A @120VAC is the same power as 150A at 12VDC (ignoring conversion losses). The Ah rating can be used to estimate run time, but the Ah rating is not specified at maximum discharge rate. A 2000mAh cell can deliver 2A for an hour, but if you draw 20 A from it, the Ah rating will go down. It won't run a 20A load for 0.1 hour.

The worst plumbing part is the plastic nut on my toilet flex supply line. It broke when I was on vacation and flooded my finished basement. I installed a Floodstop water leak alarm with whole house shutoff valve. I put a leak sensor in each bathroom, the kitchen, and laundry/water heater area. It has alerted me to a few minor leaks and shut off the water before they could cause any damage. It cost me less than $200. I think it should be standard in a new home.

I replaced a 10mm keyed chuck with a 13mm keyless one. It will cost more than buying the right bit, but will increase the chuck capacity for future projects.

As long as you have basic tools and a modicum of mechanical aptitude, you can do it.

Live goes to the bulb's center contact. Neutral goes to the bulb's threads.

Use an axle bearing. You aren't using the wood as an axle. An axle rotates with the wheel or the wheel spins on the axle. You should use washers and cotter pins to stabilize the axle's position laterally to prevent the wheels from hitting anything. https://www.mcmaster.com/axle-bearings/for-shaft-diameter~5-8/

Dimmers create noise because their output is not a sine wave. They have harmonics which extend to the hundreds of even thousands of Hz. This high frequency causes slight vibration in the coils used by thermal/magnetic circuit breakers. As long as it is faint I wouldn't worry about it.

>- drill holes on concrete/brick walls

Any hammer drill will work but an SDS drill is best if you're making a lot of holes. The neatest holes are made with Forstner bits. Pretty good holes can be made with hole saws or spade bits.

You can get security grates for windows, but that is not the solution. Shut off all gas powered appliances immediately. Get the leak fixed NOW.

You still need to stay clear of the incoming power. That said, it shouldn't be difficult to mount it while avoiding contact with the live conductors.