Not even remotely true. You never heard Aaron Carter before; that’s true metal.

Unless you have cash in the bank or say Golden 1 Credit Union decides to issue interest free loans, those people still have debts to pay. It’s not like they can say “sorry, can’t pay my mortgage or groceries this month, but it’s all good.” There were plenty of budget cycles where there were months without a budget passed and these folks weren’t initially paid.

Go in with a plan.

You should already have financing through a credit union or small bank. You need to do the research the lowesr interest rates in your area and payment repayment plan BEFORE you go to the dealership.

Once you get that done, and are issued a check by the credit union, you should plan on using up to 80% of the amount for the purchase of the vehicle.

This process is the most important as it lets you plan a budget and allow for anything extra that occurs during your shopping experience or the shanagans in the Finance Dept.

Look for the vehicle you want, but make sure you look at Consumer Reports before you buy. Yes you want a new car, but you should be buying this car with the ideology, “what can I get for this new car when I sell it down the road.” That means, the car should be rated high on Consumer Reports overall score. The last thing you want is a nice looking car where you have to spend your time working on it or having it in the shop.

• When you’re ready at the dealership, don’t play their games of “what kind of payments are you looking at?” You’re already preapproved, so you’ve beating them at this game (they’ll make your payment plans if you’re there without preapproval, but it will be for long term at a higher interest rate, resulting in you paying more over the course of the loan).

• Ask benign questions, if you’re interested in the car to establish a relationship and get a feel for the dealerships knowledge of the car. For example, ask “how many miles between oil changes.” Do a little research, and you should know this answer before you ask. Another good one is “does this come with a spare tire,” and check the trunk for one. Anyone telling you that they don’t put a spare in the trunk and put a tire pump in the back to “save MPGs” is straight up lying. There are manufacturers that do this to save production costs, but it isn’t even negligible on the MPGs for a spare to be in the back.

Check out the functions of the car, make sure the seats are comfortable and that the visibility when you move your body, such as in reverse or during lane changes is sufficent.

If you’re buying from a major dealer, your goal is to make sure the sticker price doesn’t have mark up. The manufacturers price should be the MAX (less taxes + doc) on what you pay.

• Check your states DMV website to see if they have tax and fee webpage. This is why I previously mentioned the 80% too. As a general rule, roughly 10% of the cost of the car goes to DMV/State.

• When you do get going with the Finance Guy at the dealership, you really need to stay firm and say “no” to any additional options. Window tint, accident options, and other services are cheaper if you hunt outside the dealership or go through your insurance. The only thing that might be cheaper is additional parts, like floormats and cerain OEM add-ons at the time of purchase as those will be covered under the cars warrenty.

It happens frequently when the legislative branch fails to pay the budget. Any elected offical or appointee of the governor won’t have their checks issued by the State Controller’s Office until the budget is passed.

Ever hear of capris? Those and “pant shorts” were a thing (a zipper converted pants to shorts).

Can you not tell from the beady eyes? She’s clearly 100% Canadian.

Well now I’m impressed and a little jealous at the same time.

You actually pronounce that as an acronym? What other noises do you make?

Still looking for the acronyms, but OP only puts initialisms.

Is that place pager friendly?

No, because you have to pay a service fee when paying on a credit card. I had to pay last year and decided on the credit card route you pay approximately 2%, so unless your rewards card gets you better than that, you aren’t finding some kind of benefit by paying with a CC.

https://www.irs.gov/payments/pay-your-taxes-by-debit-or-credit-card

Well, it’s gotta be the hair https://www.wonderwall.com/celebrity/photos/billy-ray-cyrus-best-nostalgia-inducing-photos-of-the-country-music-star-when-he-was-young-mullet-486943.gallery?photoId=486950

I did my first two years and it was something like $40 a unit, so super cheap. The most expensive parts were usually the books.

At the end of the day, when an employer asks for the degree, they don’t care what you did freshman and sophomore years

Where the hell are you getting this data? This is made up, at least for California for public universities.

https://www.calstate.edu/attend/paying-for-college/csu-costs

My alma mater breaks down to:

• Estimated tuition and fees: $7,806
• Estimated cost of books and supplies: $1,970
• Total: $9,776 per year

Even if you did the more expensive University of California, it’s no where near $35k per year.

https://admission.universityofcalifornia.edu/tuition-financial-aid/tuition-cost-of-attendance/

The UC breaks down to:

• UC tuition: $13,752
• Campus fees: $1,600
• Books and supplies: $1,300
• Total: $16,652 per year.

How are you skewing the stats to be over 3x more then the real costs of education? Food, healthcare, lodging, transportation, and personal life choice fees are not education expenses. Those are costs for just living.

That’s not what my diabetic polar bear says.

The times when random people could just walk into the White House off the streets.

That’s because you liked the “lalalalalala” noises.

Well another part is that Western states have a greater percentage of their land owned by the Federal government. So, looking at Nevada, where over 80% of the land is owned by the feds skews how much could be developed. In New England, the feds have such a small percentage of land, it’s laughable, so those states can build almost anywhere.

Upvote for calling it an initialism and not an acronym.

Good idea. Just correct “Zip Code” to “ZIP Code”.

ZIP means Zone Improvement Plan (ZIP), not to be confused with a zip file.

Also, I’m not sure you guys have room for this, or if every state does this, but California has a rating system for the insurers. Personally, I stay away from 3 stars and below.

Here is an example: https://reportcard.opa.ca.gov/rc/HMO_PPOCombined.aspx

Not sure if that can be added or if you guys need to request an API for that, but it would be nice to know I have a good insurer.

> You know the whole planet isn't the American southwest, right? Please tell me you know that. What an awful take.

You realize there are significant portions of the planet that could benefit from saving water and using plants that are grown regionally that still could make their property look beautiful, right?

Please let me know you understand this isn’t an American problem, but a global problem (even more so when another country controls water rights to other countries).

This is such an ignorant take.

The word you’re looking for is Xeriscaping, and it should be mandatory all over the planet.