IronSlanginRed

IronSlanginRed t1_ja4k0tz wrote

Reply to comment by Danny_Mc_71 in Been in every car I’ve had since 1986. by 710dabner

Most people still use cbs as well if they move up to ham. I've got them in most of my rigs.

Around me we use them a lot. You do not want to be headed up the mountain and run into a logging truck headed down. So at the beginning of the road there's always a cb# and the log truck drivers will call out what mile marker they're passing.

We also use them offroading. And in the ocean, and really just to talk shit to each other when we're in a camping convoy. They're cheap and work well.

They also do still work for emergencies. We've unfortunately tested that one with a quad accident.

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IronSlanginRed t1_j9s7tan wrote

Reply to comment by Opposing_Thumbs in Tile installed on concrete by foxrue

In most cases I wouldn't suggest this. But that would level out the threshold, and if it's straight on concrete it shouldn't deflect any or crack much. It's actually a decent use case. Basically using the old tile as an extension substrate.

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IronSlanginRed t1_izcjc6q wrote

Reply to Advice for first time drywall patch by astropiano1998

If they are hole saw holes, just get the same size drywall and do a california patch.

Use the same size hole saw bit to drill almost all the way through from the backside of the new drywall. Cut the facing of the drywall into 6-8" squares (atleast 2" of "flap" all the way around), and peel them off while pressing on the back of your cut, and you'll pop out a plug of drywall the right size for the hole, with a square of facing attached. Pop it in the hole and trace around the paper. Sand the texture off inside that area. Then apply drywall compound to the back of the paper and around the plug edges. Press it in, and use a large drywall knife to squeeze the compound almost out. Let it dry, then blend like normal drywall.

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IronSlanginRed t1_iu5b135 wrote

Reply to comment by moron_that_later in [Help] Please advise on how to safely remove an old garage door spring (existing guides are all for new styles of torsion spring) by moron_that_later

Yup. These kind don't have tension on them unless they are extended. So all the way up there's usually a slack spot.

TBH when i removed mine i barely had to pull on it to unhook the S-hook. All the way open and the spring was pretty much fully closed and had next to no tension. I just wore gloves so i wouldn't pinch my hand. These are waaaaay different than torsion springs.

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