I've never had need to use one, but I believe that standard Display Ports are too big for standard Keystones, so people use a Display Port to Mini-Display Port connector. I think this is the correct type:

https://tripplite.eaton.com/mini-displayport-to-displayport-all-in-one-keystone-panel-mount-adapter-cable-female-female-angled-connector-1-ft~p169001kpabk

To my knowledge, those wallplates and the plug-ins are usually called "keystone" connectors.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/NTW-USB-2-0-Type-A-A-Snap-In-Keystone-Coupler-Jack-White-NKY-FF-U2AA-WHT/206657290

Don't look for one that has exactly what you need. Get a plate that has blank cutouts, and then buy the inserts that you want.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-White-6-Gang-1-Decorator-Rocker-1-Duplex-Wall-Plate-1-Pack-5006-WH/206427770

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-Twist-On-F-Connector-White-5010-WH/206427834

Forget the crap they give you, and go buy some Tapcon concrete anchors. They're simply better.

If you think that is bad, just wait until the DEA raids your home under suspicion of operating a grow house.

*sniff* You made all of that *sniff* just for me to destroy? *single tear falls*

I know someone who used this place, but I'm afraid I don't know much about the process. You can always read through the website and even contact them for more details.

https://forgetmeknotflowers.org/about

Screws in dryer ducts are bad. They catch lint and disrupt airflow. Always better to use foil tape and/or clamps.

If the duct seems like an oval, than I would suggest you pick up a round-to-oval adapter, and see if that works. If it does, great; problem solved. If the oval part of the adapter doesn't seem to match up well with the duct in your wall, than it may be that someone just squished a piece of round duct.

Not sure why someone attached the piece of rigid duct to the semi-rigid duct. I don't see any reason why you can't simply remove it.

You might need the round-to-oval adapter. It depends on whether that's a common oval duct or a round duct that has merely been "squished" a bit to fit inside a 2x4 wall. I can't tell which, from the photo.

As for how to hook up the rest? That depends a lot on whether your existing dryer duct lines up with (or extremely close to) the wall duct, when the dryer is pushed into place. If it lines up, you may be able to use something like an adjustable rigid-metal elbow, right off the dryer, going up to the wall duct (or adapter). If it doesn't line up, then what would be best is an elbow right off the dryer, then a length of straight rigid duct, then another elbow or two leading to the wall duct (or adapter). As an alternative, you could use a metal semi-rigid duct, going right from the dryer to the wall duct (or adapter).

I can't be certain, but it appears that the duct in your first photo is a length of semi-rigid duct with a small piece of rigid duct that is either an oval adapter or has been squished to fit inside the oval. If so, you can just connect the oval piece to the wall duct and tighten the clamp, then connect the other end to the dryer and tighten the clamp. (You don't need to "stretch" the semi-rigid duct any more than is needed for it to reach.) Just be sure that you don't crush the duct, when you push the dryer back against the wall.

You can buy a whole unit for $400+. You'd probably spend that much on parts, anyway, including an acceptable heater and pumps.

https://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Portable-Inflatable-4-Person-13804/dp/B01HBKW66M/

You can always refuse to pay it.

And they can always issue a warrant for your arrest.

Plenty of people have whole-house water softeners. I don't see your point.

Water is water. Not a problem. Just use a real T-connector, not one of those cheesy pierce connectors.

I've lived in Washington Township (which surrounds the town of Washington), and I recently moved from Oxford. It really can be much cheaper to live there than even a little bit farther east, like Hackettstown. And it's not exactly "rural" living--both of those places I owned had things like natural gas, public sewage, public water, (Comcast) cable, etc. The people are generally nice enough, and the crime rate is lower than more urban areas.

The biggest negative I found is that it can be a little bit far to get anywhere. It was like 10 minutes to a (mediocre) grocery store, and more like 20-25 minutes to a Walmart or Home Depot or some good restaurants. And, of course, if you commute anywhere to work, that extra time and miles can really add up. So, it always seem like such a "chore," to go out and get any real shopping or errands done.

Hope that helps some.

You might be able to loosen or remove the metal fireplace box and/or trim, and be able to look into the wall from the bottom. That may allow you to see enough to know what you have to work with, before you start drilling into the stone.

You didn't understand the story. It was always about Damien Karras. He was losing his humility and faith in God and believing more and more in science. It was him the demon was seeking out, from the very beginning. There are clues to that in the movie. He's disgusted by the beggar instead of humbly giving him alms, he believes in mental illness instead of demonic possession, etc. And that's why the movie ends with the Demon taking him.

Whenever the space is that tight, I just use a squeeze-tube of caulk.

If you plan on doing the doors in the near future, then yeah, it should be a good, quick, cheap, temporary fix for you.

One quick tip, from my own experience. The PowerGrab works great on that Polywall--instant hold, and it bonds strong. But since the Polywall is rather thin, and the PowerGrab is actually kind of thick, get yourself something like a scrap board or plastic putty knife or a disposable adhesive spreader, and spread the glue in a somewhat thin, even layer over the back of the Pollywall (don't just make thick lines of glue). Otherwise, when you put it up, you can end up with it looking and feeling lumpy.

Good luck!

I can offer you a fairly simple, inexpensive, yet reasonably attractive fix that doesn't require any great skill of special tools.

You can go to Home Depot and get a sheet of Polywall:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/PLAS-TEX-1-16-in-x-48-in-x-96-in-White-Polywall-Plastic-Panel-10048615/311314398

It's cheap, thin, semi-rigid, durable, paintable, and can be cut with a good pair of scissors. You could cut a piece of that and cover the whole area, from door to corner. It can be applied with something like Loctite PowerGrab:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-Power-Grab-Express-9-fl-oz-Heavy-Duty-Construction-Adhesive-2032666/206432103

Then, get yourself a basic piece of outside corner trim, like this stuff:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Royal-Mouldings-5205-1-1-8-in-x-1-1-8-in-x-8-ft-PVC-Composite-White-Outside-Corner-Molding-0520508011/202089993

Cut it to length with a hacksaw, and just glue it onto the corner with the PowerGrab.

After that, you can paint it all to match the wall. It won't be "perfect," but an ideal fix would involve removing and re-framing the door, installing drywall and trim, reinstalling the door, etc.

Typically, you just pour one atop the other--no barrier between them. You just have to make sure you don't shake it wildly, after you're done.

Easy fix--I've done it many times. Just loosen or remove the outlet, and use a knife to carefully gouge some of the drywall behind the screw holes--just enough to get the face plate screws in.

You might try the Stanhope House. Not technically in Morris, but probably only a mile or two from the county line.

https://stanhopehousenj.com/

That's straight-up BS.