When we installed our above ground pool, I used what was called "dead" sand. It was very fine. It did compact to a very firm base.

I don't know if its appropriate in the OPs situation but it does compact.

Beach sand....can't say.

The concept is simple.

Person 1 marks the test samples in some random order, recording the markings.

Person 1 leaves the room

Person 2 takes the samples and gives them to the test subjects, recording which goes to whom.

After the results are logged and maybe even analyzed, the information from person 1 is used to "decode" which sample went to whom.

I believe you should fill it with concrete. The reason is to lessen internal rust. If you just cap it there will be condensation on the inside. Adding concrete will lessen the condensation and remove a lot of the oxygen.

So "Ideal" says pretwisting is acceptable but infers it is not the preferred method.

I've always made the stranded slightly longer than the solid and have had no issues. However in my installations, the stranded is always smaller than the solid (think residential lighting fixtures).

I think the issue with twisting is some folks can make too many "twists" making the wire stressed beyond what it can safely take.

Yes. If you look here you will see the relative "potential" for corrosion of different types of metals. The further apart they are in the chart, the more corrosion there will be.

try grabbing it with a vice-grip pilers. However soak the threaded part in some rusted bolt release agent.

Currents induced in a conductive material are a function of the magnetic field being imposed on the material and its electrical resistance.

Putting holes in a subject material increases the electrical resistance. Hence the resulting field will be weaker.

Except in extreme cases I don't see why it would be worth any effort.

I would think might put the psychics out of business and could be the ruin to those who act on the responses from the dead.

Hold a flashlight near the wall shining across the surface. Look for the imperfections in the drywall where the nails are.

Hey, I'm retired, let them come.

Not so. Inverters switch approximately 20,000 times a second. The on / off times are selected to generate a 60Hz sine wave. So switching it high and low intermittently will have no discernable effect on your inverter.

But to answer your question, oddly enough there is a device that can do this. They are used in hotel and dorm rooms. The device is connected to the microwave and refrigerator. It is designed to shut off the refrigerator when you turn the microwave on. This limits the power from the building.

If you plug a 1000W space heater into the refrigerator and your other load to the microwave input you will get what you asked for. I don't recommend this but it answers your querie.

How often do folks knock on your door? and why?

I don't mean to say yours isn't, just wondering the source of the problem. Perhaps that can be remedied.

Except for friends and the occasional UPS driver no one has knocked on my door in months.

Can you use a solar cell(s) to power the fan?

Is the clamp loosening or is there a resilient pad between the clamp and the glass shrinking?

In any case I would call the mfg and see if I could get a replacement.

The next town over has water that tends to eat through copper. They get small pinholes start to leak then they realize this is the same throughout the house. This is a tough one to categorize as one could argue it was a misapplication or poor installation as the water should have been treated.

Things like poorly soldered joints or poorly assembled PEX termination or Sharkbites are a tough thing to quantify. Surely you've found how to make a good solder joint. However I would not characterize any failure resulting from a poor installation to be a failure of the product.

I will admit in my home I'm very conservative. I personally sleep better feeling the all copper plumbing is the best I can do.

BTW I also have water sensors in a number of places that can shut off the main water supply if water is sensed.

Sorry I'm not a plumber, just an informed homeowner. I cannot suggest what you should do from my experience. However we have high water pressure in our house. I've removed all plastic plumbing parts. I do have the stainless braided faucet connections which are technically plastic, I was careful to purchased from a "premium" mfg (if there is such a thing).

We had a new furnace installed last March. The plumber was a very knowledgeable guy who was recommend by a friend who is a maintenance leader in a mfg company. This guy has done a lot of work for them and it has always been to notch. When asked about sharkbite he will only use them for temporary installations.

While not the same exactly, I personally look at sharkbites as similar to the aluminum wire used in homes in the 1970's. Now aluminum wire does not meet code except for services.

Having said that I would put it on my list of do do things.

You could sue the tubing mfg, but only if you could prove the copper was not suitable for the advertised application.

I'm not aware of copper failing due to normal usage only. Yes freezing, certain types of water will erode copper. But I've yet seen a properly sweated copper pipe or joint fail. My dad's house was built in 1951, no leaks to date. None of my friends or coworkers have ever had issues.

So I disagree with your statement "copper fails all the time".

If you are referring to a scientific study of the failure rate of soldered copper vs sharkbite vs ________. I am not aware of any.

However there is at least one lawsuit against sharkbite's which suggests at least some folks have had issues with them. I know of no current or past lawsuits against copper. Remember to be problematic a device need not be scientifically compared to a "standard".

>If using Sharkbite fittings, be careful where you use them and be sure to check on them every once in a while.

Seems to me, if you have to check on them once and a while they they aren't a permanent solution.

I was thinking decorative carpet and I don't know how many people do this but carpet has the ability to absorb some of the sound. And a decorative carpet may look fine. Remember some folks hang carpets on the wall.

Weird you were down voted.... go figure.

I would try to mount the TV on studs. I've always been able to find studs by shining a flashlight on the wall at a sharp angle. With the room moderately dark you should be able to see the slight imperfections where the drywall nails are.

Over time air will permeate through the plastic. You would be better with a glass jar with a metal cover.

In addition to the internal structure only pockets of volume are accessible through a single hole. And more important, foam is hard to control. You run the risk of your door separating due to the trapped expanding foam.

Try hanging a carpet on the door.

If its an interior door I would cut a piece of wood in the 35 mm range and thinner than the door. Then nail or glue it to the bottom of the door. Being thinner the obvious seam will not be too annoying. If you need even less gap I would do the same then add a brush type door sweep.

I've never measured any delay in a battery. I do agree that batteries have very different discharge characteristics than capacitors.

The capability gap is actually much larger even with super capacitors. Flow batteries make the possibility for huge increases in battery capacity.