JonJackjon

JonJackjon t1_j20re0i wrote

Ideally a hammer drill or similar it the best tool. However if you have patience you can use a diamond core drill bit. Be sure it is rated for dry use (as opposed to water cooled, by hose or similar)

Something like this.

I would also consider getting a piece of plywood 3/4 or similar. Mount the TV on the plywood and use the cement plugs to hold the plywood. You can then put a number of plugs to hold the plywood.

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JonJackjon t1_j1w0d6y wrote

Others have described the basic process. The only thing I can add is to purchase a good quality replacement valve. And that valve should be a 1/4 turn ball valve, not the one in your photo.

I would suggest a plumbing store and not a big box store.

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JonJackjon t1_j1c037s wrote

Just a guess here but I would expect these nerves serve the same purpose of most nerves.... telling you when something is wrong.

Yes there is feeling, tasting, smelling etc but reaction to something wrong is common to all/most? nerves.

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JonJackjon t1_j11waim wrote

>Edit: Another hilarious question... would the water heat up? Increasing pressure rapidly in an incompressible liquid produces heating, see: refrigeration

No, refrigeration depends on the change of state liquid <--> gas of the refrigerant.

I agree a gas will become hotter when compressed. Simply because the "heat" will exist in a smaller volume.

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JonJackjon t1_j11vspz wrote

Think so. The OP specified "submerged" so the buoyancy will only determine where in the tank they are.

But no matter how you look at it, if the tank and water accelerates, the body will accelerate as well. So there will be no reduction in the stress resulting from acceleration.

If you don't believe this simply take a glass of water, put something in the water. Accelerate the glass with the water (upwards). The item in the water will feel the same acceleration as the glass.

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JonJackjon t1_j10tdgs wrote

No data here but....

What would happen is:

  1. as the tank accelerated your body would rush to the "bottom" of the tank
  2. Once you hit the bottom your body will accelerate the same as if you strapped in a typical space craft seat. Only you will be up against the tank wall. Not nearly as supportive.
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JonJackjon t1_j10pnb4 wrote

As stated you will have to take it apart. Actually I just did the same thing with my similar lock. I cleaned it with WD-40, then alcohol to remove the WD-40 (because it will stick when cold) and lubed it with graphite dry lube.

You will have to remove the bolt and clean that as well.

I think this is pretty simple, not a lot of intricate parts to deal with.

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JonJackjon t1_j0f5kok wrote

  1. I don't recommend SharkBites for permanent installations. Search here, you will see many of the same opinion.

  2. I don't think you will get much water out with a vacuum. You might take the valve apart (i.e. unscrew the top portion) and may get a little more water out.

I'm in the North East, I've purchased foam covers for the outside spigots. Google "outdoor spigot covers for winter freeze protection"

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JonJackjon t1_ixkao9q wrote

I read a National Library of Medicine article there was a negative link between the low frequency noise created by wind turbines and human sleep issues. I didn't say but I would expect a similar effect on animals.

I know the absolute intensity of the sound is relatively low but because the frequency is so much lower there is a much different effect than a fan or similar.

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JonJackjon t1_ix8c79u wrote

Kind of an odd configuration. Are you sure you have 120VAC at the thermostat?

Your oil boiler should have a controller on the front (called an aquastat).

Can you post a photo of the boiler? And the thermostat wiring.

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JonJackjon t1_ix70uic wrote

My neighbor used a heat lamp bulb as a heater for his dog. This might work.

In any case (not knowing your cat's cold capability) I would be inclined to put a remote outdoor thermometer in the cat house just to be sure you don't end up with a purrcycle.

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JonJackjon t1_iw8p437 wrote

> A breaker will trip on a peak current. It's not much of a 30A breaker if it lets 42.5A past now, is it?

A thermal magnetic breaker trips at different rates.

Magnetic circuit trips the breaker when a short or near short is experienced. They are rated to trip at 2 to 5 times the rated current. Whether 2, 3, 4 or 5 times depends on the type of breaker.

The thermal circuit will trip the breaker when enough heat is generated due to the current flow. Since is it heat related the current is sensed as RMS.

This is a safety and a local code issue. Please do not suggest solutions where you don't know the complete situation nor the local code requirements.

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JonJackjon t1_iuegvdr wrote

We don't know your type of fixture. I had a similar situation. I removed the whole stem. This can usually be done from the front of the valve. Simply google "faucet valve stem" and you will see the construction I am talking about. If this is your valve type, replacing the valve stem is easy, not costly and much better as it replaces all the seals and moving parts.

Good luck. Let us know how you make out.

Jon

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