Yes, they both store energy:

The capacitor stores the energy as an electric field.

The battery provides energy from a chemical reaction.

With today's technology a battery can generate more energy than the capacitor can store.

If no additional height is acceptable, considered engineered wood instead of tile. It won't be a great insulator but better than tile.

It also seems the slower the animal the longer it lives. Could be the heartbeat limit you mentioned.

I agree with this explanation with a minor addition. The plasma created from the lightning discharge is extremely hot. Extreme heat from anything will give off light. This is why incandescent bulb colors are described in °Kelvin.

I don't know the physics of how a hot specimen emits photons.

In my experience a 2nd coat will make more of a difference that it would first seem. I always do a 2nd coat. I've tried to not do but it just doesn't look nearly as good.

I built a hoist "mono trolley in my garage. I used 2 x 6 on edge with a strip of steel on the top. I used a solid wheel from a HD store caster. It works great for me, perhaps a variation might be useful for your project.

Also note in our state we have a company that sells steel commercially. They have a large out building with "scraps" (some are really big scraps). Perhaps there is one in your area.

Yes thank you. The concept is much clearer now.

Perhaps I'm looking at it wrong. And these concepts are a big stretch to my ability to comprehend.

Thank you.

I'm confused about the concept of the universe. When I was a kid we were told the universe was "everything" now is not quite everything but currently expanding size. However logically even nothing has dimensions. Seriously, could we go to the edge of the universe then stick a meter stick a little bit further.

(not serious) or is the edge of the universe an ice wall guarded by some galactic guardians?

I've wrapped the nut with a few layers of duct tape. Then the channel locks don't do as much damage.

I see two possible solutions using 3M tape.

1. The 3M VHB is the strongest however your tile has some pattern and the amount of contact with the tape could be an issue.
2. 3M Heavy duty foam tape is not a strong as the VHB but it is more tolerant of non flat surfaces.

In either case the surfaces must be very very clean.

Removal of either can be performed by getting some thin steel picture hanging wire or craft wire. Using the wire you can "saw" down through the tape. Then you only have to remove the residue, not easy but doable.

I would get a real heavy Eye bolt maybe a 1/4 " (I like Stainless steel) Screw it right into the 1 x 6. Test to see that it holds you.

I don't recall, however at the time I figured I went about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way through the hardwood. As I was drilling (very slowly) my wife was watching the surface for any indication I was too close to the surface.

To get an idea of the thickness I did measure the floor thickness where our hot water baseboard heat went through the floor.

I believe there are low current "signal" connections that will be made before the high current is enabled. This "signal" is used to energize the high current contacts after insertion.

This info is kinda old and things may have changed. I'll have to look at my local charging station when I get a chance.

Then use elmers glue to bond the wood strips to the old drywall.

>It’s really only a dance cable hanger, with some added intelligence.

If my memory serves me, the cable is energized with low current only, when being plugged in. After the plug has been mated to the vehicle, the vehicle sends a signal to the wall unit to turn on the high power circuit.

Can you access the floor from underneath?

I had a similar problem, I was able to drill up from below into a few of the culprit boards.

I had to tap the hardwood floor (from below) and tighten with a #10 machine screw.

I believe it would be just as strong, maybe stronger since the grain is different on each 2 x 4. I wouldn't recommend it for outdoors but if you were to sandwich a piece of 3/4 plywood between the 2 x 4 it will be super strong.

Why not use two 2 x 4 Screwed together?

I would not venture to take a guess.

However if I were motivated to use only 3 holes I would purchase longer screws in stainless steel. The stainless steel part is important. It approximately doubles the tensile strength.

Was the pre drill size from the mounting instructions?

As suggested I would pre drill deeper, drag the screw across a bar of soap before reinserting it. You might need a hand screwdriver for the last few turns.

If the grease pen doesn't work you can tape sharpies to the fixture. If you use three different colors you can see where the can would "like" to be.

If the springs are not adjusted properly the grease problems suggested can make a big difference.

The ideal spring adjustment is so the door is roughly neutral when 1/2 open. I.e. the door will stay in the mid position without manually holding it (with the door opener disconnected)

As a temporary "fix" can you extend the duct to a peak vent (if you have one).