We don’t have enough info yet but don’t sweat this too much. It looks like caulk near the doorframe where the floor was cut a bit short originally but the floor has now shrunk a little more creating an even larger gap.

The threshold should be investigated more. Is there adhesive on both sides or just one side? It may be able to be cleaned and reset in place.

Have you read the installation instructions? They require room transitions depending on the room size to allow the floor to float properly.

My friend had a cheap contractor install a floating laminate floor in his entry way and large kitchen. No transition was used where it should have been and every summer the floor can’t expand far enough and pops up. It shrinks back down in the winter but more people should read instructions.

Nice work! Keep in mind, if you angle it up too high you will easily see the bar’s bottom brackets.

If you’re adding shims to only the rear mount near the silver screw it won’t need much thickness to make a decent change in the bar’s front angle. You could test it by even folding a piece of paper in half five times and slipping that in (with bar removed for safety-loosen the screw, insert shim, retighten screw).

You will be using thin shims to make the angle adjustments. There will still be plenty of threads on the mounting screws holding it in. Also, this is stationary and not in a moving/vibrating car so it doesn’t take much for it to stay in place.

If you needed thick shims for the rear area to get your perfect angle it would be worth buying longer screws to give you peace of mind. Just make sure they’re not too long and go through into your bar.

What you just described is a washer. A washer can be used as a shim though. A shim is anything that creates space (think of it like a small wedge). You need to create space in certain areas to change the overall angle.

Thanks for sharing the detailed photos. I see two solutions and neither requires special tools.

1- At the rear bracket with the silver screw, add a shim to the bottom outside corners between the narrow bracket and the sound bar’s thick L bracket. This will change the angle and remain completely hidden.

2- On the bottom of the sound bar add shims between the bar and bracket in front of the mounting screw. Add too many and you’ll see it though.

You may need a combination of both of these to get the angle you want. The TV mount should have come with multiple washers and spacers that should work for what you need here.

I appreciate how much you don’t know. On larger gaps the caulk can run down below where you’ll never know until you start pulling. You should only score caulk and not the paper. Often, walls aren’t even finished all the way to the bottom. There are many good reason to add quarter round.

If you truly did all that then you would have at least a handful of trouble spots. No wall is perfectly straight. Often there’s deep areas of caulk at pull the paper off the drywall.

I’m betting you did one room in your own house like this. If you did more you’d know it’s a can of worms when you remove base. Sometimes is comes out clean, other times it’s like they made the base structural and you just created a ton of extra work for yourself due to the junk original builder’s work.

So you like repainting walls when the touch ups don’t blend well? It’s all about personal and customer preference.

Not at all. It’s an installer’s choice what services to offer and a customer’s to accept. I once installed 700 sq ft of LVP with upgrading the baseboards to modern style ones. Later the customer asked me if we could still add quarter round because they thought it looked more elegant. I didn’t have time to do it but to each their own.

It’s very common for renovation installs to add quarter round rather than remove and reinstall baseboard.

It all depends on what flooring type you’re transitioning to. Assuming they’re all LVT to wood like this, you’re doing it correctly.

Never overhang the LVT over the edge to cover the gap. It needs to be fully supported.

Enjoy your new floor. I regularly fix problems like this. It’s really simple if you read the full installation instructions. Respect the expansion gaps and your floor will be great for many years to come.

Why would you limit the floating space between the floors by 50%? I assure you the best way is to glue it to the top of the LVT. Letting both floors float is what’s needed. You have a somewhat rare situation but this is the way to handle it.

I’d glue it to the top of the LVT. That way it can float over the wood and both can expand and contract as needed. Nice work!