> in case I need to backdoor Roth in the future.

Yeah, I think my bias is showing since that is such a more important consideration in this forum than perhaps in the world at large.

The new brokerage link option narrows the issue with broader investment choices.. NeverMind. Super bad.

I agree about the other flexibilities with IRAs

Completely agree. Just wanted to offer an option should something arise, since many people tend to want to leave the TSP and its almost always a super bad idea.

Generally yes, the TSP is hard to beat and is generally only equaled by the very best plans at the very best employers.

And if she ever leaves federal service, she should keep the TSP since it accepts rollovers from everything, making consolidating very easy

Subleasing is really your only option, if your lease allows it. You can't make assumptions about lease terms and 60 days notice is fairly common

For what purpose?

I got my blue cash in like 2010 I think? And saw posts about it being amazing back to around the mid 2000s back when I was doing big manufactured spend

Oh sure, I had assumed by the questions he meant the charge cards. That’s good clarification though

Amex has had regular credit cards like the Blue cash since at least..2006? Maybe earlier.

> What’s the purpose of having a 4 and a 3 digit code?

The four digit code on the front is the cvv

> Isn’t my spending limit simply the credit limit on the card?

Charge cards have no credit limit. They have a “floating spending limit”

> Curious question: When did AMEX change from everything being due at the end of 30 days to making payment like a regular card?

They didn’t. You have to use the pay over time feature

>What is the best way to get it into m current retirement account without getting taxed or penalized with fees

You roll it over.

Read the rollover entry in the wiki

Essentially things you can buy online are mostly the same everywhere. Everything else can be quite different.

Oh hey buddy, where you been?

>As you can see in figure 1, the highest quintile outperformed the broad S&P 500 Index by over 1.3% per year, which turned into nearly 141% outperformance over time. And it did this with a lower beta. Even the second quintile outperformed the S&P 500 by over 1.5% per year, for a total of more than 159% outperformance over time, with less risk.

>but what does one of the top finance professors at one of the top business schools in the world know?

I mean his chart shows that three of the five quintiles underperform the sp500.

This begs the question then, if its so easy to beat the market by picking dividend paying companies, why doesn't every (or at least many) fund manager(s) beat the market?

I'm not saying eschew dividends, I'm saying that whatever most retail investors do is probably going to be wrong, so go with the least wrong option (buying the market)

Yes it’s the same thing for all intents and purposes

I thought you were comparing it to a TDF?

What’s wrong with the three fund portfolio? Dividends aren’t anything special

Then it doesn’t matter I guess. Didn’t realize they made it free

Fees

> For Schwab Intelligent Portfolios Premium, there is an initial planning fee of $300 upon enrollment and a $30 per month advisory fee charged on a quarterly basis as detailed in the Schwab Intelligent Portfolios Solutions™ disclosure brochures.

Tdf rebalances automatically (that’s essentially the whole point of them)

Yeah I don’t think they provide any additional value

And the later in life you are (and larger the balance is) the less it matters since you start with a larger and larger balance each Jan 1

Americans pay taxes on their world wide income

Are you saying you made non deductible contributions to an ira? Or did you deduct them on your taxes?

Did you file your form 8606 each year?

Robo advisors are just gussied up, expensive target date funds

Big oof. Need to get that invested

Start here: https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/commontopics

Is that $710k in cash?

You’d need about $1.65 million in todays dollars to generate $5500 in monthly income given a 4% safe withdrawal.

If what you have is all invested, you should have 2.2 million in 15 years assuming a 7% inflation adjusted return. If you earn only 5%, you’d end with about 1.68 million

Well, you need to figure that out since that’s your target/goal you’re trying to solve for

What is your monthly spend now?

How much and when will you take social security?