brock_lee

brock_lee t1_iuas1j9 wrote

Any decent exterior paint will do. No coating necessary. I like Sherwin Williams A-100. One of their "lower" quality lines, but a very solid paint. My house and shed are both painted with it. Amazingly little fading after like 12 years, compared to some neighbors who used other paints. However, considering a shed usually only needs a gallon, it may be better to go with one of their higher quality, longer lasting paints. Could be worth $10 or $20 more to get 5-7 more years out of it.

1

brock_lee t1_iu9ersm wrote

> It's a new tiny home. Why would they replace the cartridge?

Is this the argument we need today? First, people often call their home "new" even when it's not. Second, I said it may be a good idea, so OP can decide for themselves if it's appropriate.

And no, it's not the hot water limiter.

4

brock_lee t1_iu9dy94 wrote

Reply to comment by wgc123 in help with shower handle? by YaBoyDaveee

The cartridge being upside down is the issue. The handle often fits only one way, but the handle position itself isn't the issue, just an indicator. And, if the normal rotation is from off at the 6 oclock position, to super hot at the 9 oclock position, then it's certainly possible that the rotation is the same, but the off is at the 12 oclock position because the cartriges's openings are offset from where they are supposed to be.

2

brock_lee t1_iu99q8v wrote

Look at some marine toilets. Some have a macerator without the pump. They are generally not very aesthetically pleasing for a home, tho.

https://www.hodgesmarine.com/dom9108836053-dometic-masterflush-7260-macerator-toilet-12v.html

Also for a standard home macerating toilet, there really isn't any reason you can't pump it down. Typically those exit through the wall behind the toilet, and there's no reason it has to go up you can just redirect it down.

−1

brock_lee t1_iu8xmmv wrote

It does sound upside down. The basic way to fix that is to shut off the water to the house, remove the handle, then remove the cartridge, and flip it. There are plenty of videos on YouTube about changing cartridges. Just follow those, but the idea is just to flip the cartrige. It may also be a good idea to simply replace the cartridge with a new one if you're going to all that trouble.

28

brock_lee t1_iu624z3 wrote

Did you remove the door from the opener (by pulling the release cord) and try the door manually to feel if it's binding? Have you checked the springs to make sure they are not broken? For the torsion springs, you often don't know one is broken, and when the second breaks, the door acts wonky.

My door was doing something like this a few weeks ago, and when I did it manually, I could see, hear, and feel the door was rubbing on one of the rails. Basically there is some play side to side in the door, and it had gone all the way to one side.

2

brock_lee t1_isf4kxd wrote

OK, hope it works out. I have comcast, and whenever I get a new modem, the only place I can get to at first is comcast.com and their "register your modem" page, where it links the individual modem to my account. Then, it usually takes maybe 5-15 minutes for that to stabilize and I can reach the internet.

2

brock_lee t1_isf1n85 wrote

They would (or should) run the working cable into the house. Once inside, then it's your responsibility. They should, however, install the cable modem on it too. Don't do any work that you dont know will be used by them when they come out. It has a good chance of being a wasted effort.

Before they get there, you'd need to run the cable inside, and connect a modem to it, and have them configure the modem, sometimes it can be done online but often you need to call with the MAC address. And that's IF that cable is the correct one.

45

brock_lee t1_is5j4ps wrote

This is what I did. Was getting a shed and they would have charged a lot for leveling the site. Mine was about 6 or 7 inches out of level, so I dug down a little, provided them with level blocks in the corners, and a pile of extra blocks to use. They said that was perfect and once they had the base framing set on the corners, wedged in the other blocks on the sides and down the center to prevent bounce. These were flat blocks, not the ones that have grooves for framing.

5