HA! Looked just like that, but 100% alcohol.

How did you know?

There was one in a town I lived in once, and you basically drove INTO the store. It was like a car wash, but you drove in, they walked up to your window, you asked for what you want, and they brought it all to your car and put in in the back seat or trunk.

Well, yeah, you can stain MDF, but it usually doesn't work well since there's no grain. Most people will do a faux grain on the MDF, but a nice plywood with a cabinet grade veneer is probably easier, if not exactly cheaper.

That should be more than sufficient. "Boxes" are often even stronger than you think they're going to be because all the pieces together as a system. I might even suggest MDF rather than plywood, if you are considering painting or using contact paper on top. It's cheaper, and takes paint REALLY well. Might even hide a 1x2 rib down the middle for added anti-sag support.

And that was also the nickname of the old Lucent logo

https://i.imgur.com/pHBWi2U.jpg

Popcorn

How much risk are you willing to take? :) If it just starts falling inward, two people should be able to remove the whole glass panel, place it on a carpet, and tint it there.

Like I said once you remove the frame, especially with someone there to hold it, you would see very fast if the glass is loose or still glues to the outside frame.

Well, as he shows it, the frame holds the glass, but once you remove the inside part, the glass is still glued or caulked to the outside part of the frame and it takes effort to remove it. If you do remove the inside frame (which would come out as one piece exposing the large glass pane), the glass should stay in. The problem is, you never know of the door has the glass glued in, if the glue is still holding, and so on. You'll likely be fine, and yes, it would be far easier to tint without the frames in place with a much better result, but just be cautious that the glass does not fall inward. Once you remove the frame, it should be immediately apparent if the glass is going to come loose.

It may hold the glass in place. Even though you are not replacing the glass, go through this video to see how it works. He cautions you about the glass once removing the frame.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c3ItH6oga_U

Start a new post, I'll be happy to have that discussion.

I can't control what anyone does. Like why you feel the need to argue, for instance.

No, no one says you must drive after drinking. Everyone knows not to do it. Grow up.

I often remember his line "We serve hard drinks in here for men who want to get drunk fast..." Back when no one made any bones about what a bar is for. None of this "we don't serve you if you appear intoxicated" crap. People GO there to get drunk.

It's fine to do, sure, but could get complicated with a long run and one that has bends and curves. Hopefully, they left a cord in the conduit to tie a future cable to and pull through.

Father in law worked at NIST (and it predecessor the Bureau of Standards) for 35 years or something. In radio propagation. Got some cool stories about things like color TV. The first specs brought to the government would have rendered B/W TVs useless, and they said "go back and make black and white, and color TVs work on the same frequencies, it can be done." Also, the first draft for the emergency broadcast system had circuitry inside radios and TVs, until they showed how easy it was to hack, so the system changed, and the system was set up via broadcasters, not the devices.

Sometimes if I cook bacon and let it go a little too long, some kind of heat overload sensor trips and it stops heating. For a while. You can even hear it's different. Everything "works" but there's less of a hum. Maybe 20 minutes later, the fuse/breaker resets and all is well. You might try seeing if you can find a schematic and if there's a heat sensor overload fuse that does not automatically reset and maybe got blown during the outage.

In the US, health insurers are required to cover a screening colonoscopy for free, over a certain age. Note also that in the US if you get one of those home testing kits which indicates you need a colonoscopy, that colonoscopy is not considered a screening colonoscopy, it is diagnostic, and is subject to your insurance copays and deductibles.

What if!

They'll do it starting at 80. I sent away for a card from Obama for my mom's 80th

https://www.80thbirthdayideas.com/how-to-order-an-80th-birthday-card-from-the-president/

That's why I specified flood safe or anti-flood hoses. They have valves inside that detect leaks (in different ways) and shut off. Those valves can become defective, so for instance the first time you use the washer in a day, they partially close, but the second time, they open.

I sounds however, like the electric valves in the washer are faulty.

Call the place you bought it and tell them it appears defective as the fill time is far beyond excessive. Also explain the above. You checked your valves, filters, and so on. They may send a technician at no cost to check it out. Just make sure you can reproduce the problem if they send a tech.

Finally, if you have anti-flood hoses, make sure they are not defective.

https://www.amazon.com/2-pack-Flood-Washing-Machine-Built/dp/B07TBHRL5T

(They are not always colored like that)

It really depends. I have two windows in my living room that are squished together, separate units, but there is no stud between them. These were aluminum units that the build purposely put together as one unit in 1980.

There is/was a TV series that YouTube started recommending to me. It was basically watching customs agents in Australia, UK, and Canada. The Canada ones were actually pretty strict. When someone was caught bringing in food, they often got a hefty fine because they had often filled out the declarations card saying they did not have any food. So, the fine was for lying, not having the food.