dominus_aranearum

dominus_aranearum t1_iy4q0cy wrote

While it's certainly possible, an important factor is the type of conduit and internal diameter. Is is blue with ridges (smurf tube) and meant for low volt? Is it grey PVC or metal conduit meant for electrical runs? Or is it white PVC meant for an in wall vacuum?

Where is the other end?

Smurf tubes will often be a straight run with no interruptions.

Electrical conduit will require an access point every 360° or less. Electrical conduit also often runs to other j-boxes in other rooms.

Vacuum runs will be run like plumbing drains and have branches that lead to a central trunk.

They type of conduit can help determine the best method of running ethernet cable, whether vacuum, compressor or fish. A picture would help.

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dominus_aranearum t1_ixtw7qz wrote

If it's already that damaged, it would be better to pull it first. Old flooring should never be covered if you don't know the condition of the sub floor. Especially if some of it is water damaged. Additionally, by adding a layer prior to your new finished floors, it can affect door jambs, thresholds with other floors, etc.

I've done remodels where I've pulled 4 layers of flooring and aside from the nightmare, it's always because the prior installers (or owners) didn't want to do the job properly the first time.

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dominus_aranearum t1_ixtug4t wrote

It's only water proof from the top. If water ever gets around the edge, it will potentially run underneath the flooring material and the 'yellow tongue' will soak up water like a sponge and swell.

Personally, I won't use a particle board based sheathing on the floor. While the swelling I've repaired has been limited to kitchens and bathrooms, it's not a risk I'm willing to take as a GC. I'm also not a fan of running a bunch of nails/screws through an old hardwood floor as someone may want to restore it at some point.

All the addition of a plywood or backer board will do is help to flatten out areas. If you have unlevel floors and want them level, you'll need to either do a proper fix or use some leveling materials. Whatever flooring you have chosen, the manufacturer will have very specific requirements for the floor prep prior to installation regarding how flat the floor needs to be.

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dominus_aranearum t1_ix23b98 wrote

> for fences they recommend 1/3 - 1/2 of the exposed height

Fences aren't carrying a vertical load so the recommended burying distance is irrelevant in this case. Fences need to withstand wind forces perpendicular to the posts, hence the below ground support. For uplift, the structure needs a proper footing and brackets.

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dominus_aranearum t1_iwvbsch wrote

I'm aware of the reasons and that cops only have a duty to protect the government, not individuals themselves. These rulings are made by those in power who want to maintain the divide between social and economic classes.

The standards necessary for being in law enforcement are too low and the lack of accountability furthers authoritative abuse. Being a cop should absolutely require more education and training, being licensed, being insured and accountability. When a 'civilian' is expected to know the law better than the cops who are paid to uphold those laws, it furthers the power imbalance. When a cop can arrest you and turn your life upside down because they are having a bad day or simply want to bully you, even when illegally detained, you have almost no recourse. I'm glad that there is a little accountability happening now, but it's the tip of the iceberg for a massively corrupt institution and needs serious reform.

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dominus_aranearum t1_iwv9u6o wrote

I'm aware and that's irrelevant here. Cop unions have too much power and aren't there to gain better working conditions, but rather to strong arm the communities the cops are supposed to serve into toeing the line.

My point is that the people making these decisions are selfish, egotistical and power hungry. They care for nothing beyond their own group and will stomp all over you to get it.

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dominus_aranearum t1_iwtr2qr wrote

It's amazing that cops are rarely held accountable for intentional actions that harm another person under the guise of qualified immunity. Same for prosecutors, etc. People who have the tools and resources at their disposal, but are just bullies.

But a social worker, actually trying to help those most in need, not given the necessary resources to accomplish those tasks, can be held accountable as a result of being seriously overworked? Why am I not surprised?

Our system and country are beyond help at this point.

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dominus_aranearum t1_iwnhvsi wrote

For this situation, 1/4 turn angle stop valves are the way to go. Less parts, last longer and more reliable that a multi-turn compression type valve.

If you're doing repairs on CPVC, you'd be better off replacing all of your plumbing supply. CPVC gets brittle after about 15 years because the material becomes more rigid with age. If it's never moved, it's fine. But when you go to change a shut off valve, they're easy to snap. I've had it happen on a regular PVC supply when removing the supply hose. That was a messy day.

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dominus_aranearum t1_iuusq07 wrote

I did this at my shop to have a temporary outdoor shower. 10 gallon water heater worked well. However, I learned that standard garden hoses are not meant for hot water. Make sure you get one rated for hot water.

Do you plan to empty the tank in between uses? While my shop is unheated, it never gets cold enough inside to freeze water, let alone in an insulated tank. Might not be a bad idea to look for a 10-20 gal tank in the future. Heating 50 gallons takes a bit.

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dominus_aranearum t1_iu6acb3 wrote

Realistically, if you followed instructions and used appropriate backing and screw pattern for the ceiling cement board, you're probably fine. But if you affixed the cement board to your 24" on center trusses or 16" on center floor joists, the cement board doesn't have enough support. Probably needs 12" on center and blocking at any seams.

Also, did you install the cement board over drywall? Or directly to wood framing?

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dominus_aranearum t1_iu3haue wrote

The only things you need to worry about are that you're using the proper backer, mortar and waterproofing and that your ceiling can handle the additional weight.

My biggest concern, other than the weight of the tile/mortar/backer on the ceiling would be an improperly attached tile falling and injuring someone or damaging something. Proper prep work and materials are very important.

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