eventually. you'll end up removing and redoing it eventually.

to prolong this, you can make a wrap to give more filter surface, and use a proper landscape fabric. a double punched non woven fabric is what you want. 4oz is a happy medium, less will allow more flow but isn't as heavy, 6/8, and higher oz will be less permeable and won't pass water as quickly.

to be fair, you don't use a French drain to take care of surface water. op should just run a trench that can be easily cleaned if maintenance is priority and ground water isn't a concern. can run a French drain underneath if needed.

in a French drain you ALWAYS want to use a fabric. even in heavy clay. again, many people are better served by proper slope and surface drains for the bulk of their water, which prolongs fabric health.

that's up to you. each will have different qualities and sag under its own weight to a point. your span isn't long, it's the weight that matters, and how you're supporting it.

in most choices I'll choose whatever plywood looks decent/ decent priced I would stay away from 1/4", but if you're just stacking some paper towels it'll work. I use 3/4" minimum but 1/2" will work great for most people's needs. if you face it with 1x2" material and support on 3 sides you add significant resistance to sag.

i will not use shatkbites beyond a temporary cap. just like I will never use pex unless the system had a need for it and it's properties, and leaching is worth the risk. just like I won't use press fittings unless the area would benefit from it. but sharkbites ARE permanent [for the life of the system] fittings, when installed correctly. this really sounds like a turbulence/wear issue.

but there's nothing wrong with sharkbites. this sounds like an improper install.

this could be lack of installed depth

lack of surface prep,

lack of proper deburring

lack of proper grounding/jumpering

dezincification

poor choice of metallurgy for system

one or none of the above and you damaged the o ring

poor castings do happen, but rare. and manufacturer o ring/teeth assembly could've been improper, but rare, and no one will know because no one checks the inside before they use the fittings.

this is 99.9% of a time user error. and without pictures, I have to assume as much.

funny story, I had a sw x sw Mueller or watts lead free ball valve leak. installed vertically in a tight spot and couldn't get proper heat on it. clearly the problem is the valve, couldn't have been the excessive heat. good thing those valve have that blue and white self healing properties that saved it until I could get new seals.

point is, this stuff is usually user error and the only play is, regardless of how easy the system is, you will have to prep the pipe, mark depths, check sealing surfaces prior to install, etc etc etc. and do we know what kind of pipe was mated? was this ACTUALLY a sharkbite brand fitting or did you buy a Chinese knock off to save $$$?

GOOD pictures speak a thousand words. I hate to defend shark bites, but there's nothing wrong with them.

could they have used a clear caulk? if it's passing light and it's a separation, a quality caulk will fix your issue.

I still don't know what I'm lookin at. the pov/depth of pic is weird. but you can always cut back more drywall to place more material, whether that's wood, foam, combination of, more drywall. if you're getting air, it should be patched somehow.

I'm not sure if you're having a building siding issue or door seal issue at this point. it sounds like you're not sure either and it's confusing me so Consider:

if what you're getting here is light through the flap gasket, your door likely needs adjusted. this is usually as simple as [with the door closed] loosening the track brackets on left and right side and pushing the tracks further towards the gap closing it, and making sure nothing rubs excessively, or that you don't go too far pushing the seal out worse. this is assuming your seal is still pliable and positioned correctly to begin with. you may need to get a track grease if it's a significantly tighter fit/ door wear. seals may need replaced.

I can't tell what's going on here, but "pink insulation", or any fiber/ stranded insulation don't block air. it has r value but you'll still be promoting air exchange. you'll most likely want a foam, whether that's rigid board or spray, or both. there's other ways to block air transfer, but it depends on construction.

I can't tell if that's a dimensional rift, foil, or missing drywall

yeah without pictures its hard to say, but you've pretty much have done everything wrong. and Because you tried leveling sagging areas, things will only get worse.

joists have maximum spans depending on species, grade, thickness and width. they also different allowable levels of sag, and periods of time where excessive loads can cause deflection/sag.

also, without blocking, joists/ beams will twist. because a joist/beam is in compression AND tension on the outer edges of the horizontal member, those members get their strength from the height [up and down] and stability from the width/ flange. a joist essentially wants to twist when put under load, to the point its flat, especially in the center. the flatter it gets obviously the weaker the member is. this is exceptionally troublesome in big beams. as you lose upright positioning you sag more as you lose "strength".

wooden joists have no flange, they're usually just 1.5" to 2" depending on age. to fight this twisting, you need lateral support. members acting on members. this is where blocking comes into play. you've seen two pieces Xed between joists, or solid, and sometimes two 1x or 2x boards at top and bottom. if you don't have hangers at joist ends, blocking will significantly help whether it's a wood joist or steel beam. usually blocking is only required on something like 16?ft spans or so? for 2x12s or larger? but what blocking does is help distribute the load, add stiffness by preventing deflection which decreases sag.

this next part depends on span. so what you can do is jack up the floor and sister joist members with same size or LARGER members if you can take the height difference. every 2 inches you add to board height essentially doubles the load they can hold, every board you sister is slightly less. wood quantity for wood quantity, moving to the next 2x size is significantly more efficient/ cheaper and stronger with less deflection. you can notch the ends of the joists to fit a bigger member. while not ideal, it will still greatly benefit. you can also add end blocking on top of that and run joist hangers to support the bottom addition.

you can also add a beam, steel, wood, engineered lumber, again depends on load/span. you'll still likely be sistering the existing joists as they'll likely be permanently deformed. the beam can usually be mounted flush, and joists hangered, but you can also run beam beneath. there's some decent math to do here and no one here has enough information and really shouldn't Because of safety and insurance.

your floor may be within spec and the sag is okay, without pics, or measurements etc its hard to say.

but yeah you made your job a bit harder as once you jack up your floor, your previous adjustments will be very proud. and you can shave the floor if it's a wood product, you likely only have a 1/4 or so before you get down to the tongue. I forget what floor you said you're trying to save. it might look like shit when this is all said and done and you'll be doing more work and money in the end.

if you try something like shimming the floor from underneath, trying to fasten underneath. lol. hope I get to see that thread too. the half assed leveler is likely going to be the problem and was improper assessment. depending how it was discussed, you hired a flooring guy to install floor. it's like going to a boob surgeon and complaining you walked out with big boobies. they work with a lot of out if Level garbage and a lot of people don't do the work to level because they don't care and are likely going to flip it. next time try to assess the issues properly and come up with a plan. you can start now. at least you know who to point your fingers at when you complain about pulling certain things out [yourself]

you may find you had beams or supports and someone removed them. this is the case with a lot of houses because of open concept flipping. you can stay open concept but you have to do it right

you missed the point and you're wrong. light switches complete a circuit when on, they find a neutral [or return] when on, when off they interupt that return, whether that's a correct or incorrect wiring method can vary.

an always on device requires a neutral OR alternative power. this means smart switches, smart thermostats, automated function devices.

if this were a multi phase wiring install that COULD differ.

please don't input incorrect or half right information. yes lights get the neutral passed to them, but convention has changed if you intend to automate. you're fully right if this were 1990 again.

all switches do NOT require a neutral, not in any code I'm familiar with. your definition of properly is half baked and people reading should factor this when considering your comments.

while smart switches/ thermostats will require what acts as a neutral, switches in general do not. and depending on wiring, is completely unnecessary as to use the neutral you'd be doing major rewiring anyways. next you'll say we have to run a traveler or 2 to every box requiring 3 or 4 conductors when 2 suffice just in case, ignoring the need for breakers. some things do NOT need the ability for a smart switch due to safety, and thus neutral.

no I get what you meant. but people care so much about what others think I can see people jumping on the "x material is bad" band wagon. I was just pointing out for others who are looking for material, especially with these prices, that melamine/mdf always has a place in any price range. it just takes care whether you're building on your own or buying pre built.

no harm from me, just leaving a tid bit for anyone getting lost in cabinet world. yes it's very susceptible to edge swell more so than plywood, but again that's as simple as elevating or sealing edges. same with laminate for those reading. great surface, brands like formica 180fx really do great at their 3d designs imitating depth of stone, especially with modern manufacturing of certain brands, but severely botched by poor installation or poor subsurface/ adhesion. these great materials get kicked to the curb thanks to misinformed word of mouth, or because someone moved into a house with 50 year old laminate that needs replaced.

rant over. again no offense to you, I got what you meant. just wanted to clarify for other people browsing

just commenting because of the "no one ever knew they were melamine" comment. houses in all price ranges from $5k demos to multi million dollar builds have melamine/ mdf cabinets. melamine isn't an inferior material, its actually one of the main and is great if the base material is decent and the melamine adhesive is quality.

if a cabinet is built right, sealed right, according to the room's needs [and ventilation/ drainage if that's needed] melamine is a great material. I don't like it because of its additional weight but will definitely use for floor cabinets/ occasional wet areas when I can properly seal it.

with that said, it gets a bad rap because it isn't properly sealed and/or is used in high humidity/ high splash areas and is allowed to touch the ground.

nothing to be ashamed of and you can route a nice edging on it with time. yes I prefer plywood but with these prices we're gong to see a lot of negative comments because flippers used it in appropriately and people can't seperate the poor install from the product itself.

I know you didn't say all that but I feel people should be aware that it IS a great material and can be potentially used anywhere with custom edging, what have you, if done properly. some people feel "poor" because HGTV tells them what they have isn't good and frankly, HGTV and all those home shows are garbage.