imnotsoho

imnotsoho t1_iwxte3r wrote

Might not be up to code, but when was the building inspector came to your house to check your inside water connections? If it works and does not contaminate any other water in the house, what is the problem. You can bring it up to code when you have other work done that needs inspection, or when you go to sell - or not. Easy way to bring up to code is to just disconnect the splitter and hose from the fridge. Is there any code that says your fridge has to be connected to water?

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imnotsoho t1_iujjpem wrote

Is the part you want to fill that little strip? Is the greyish thing at the top right of the photo a mat in front of your front door? I am assuming you are not talking about that ~2x6 foot planter area adjacent to the concrete, just the 4 inch wide strip directly in front of the gas meter?

If just the strip, pull out what is there - a claw hammer and hand trowel are probably all you need. Did it the same depth as the remaining concrete, put a board to form an edge at the end and mix and pour some concrete mix. Like one other poster said wrap the vertical gas line to separate it from concrete, even a few wraps of cardboard would do, it will rot away if you can't pull it out. I would put a 4 inch wide line of painters tape on each side of the trench to make it easier to do a clean pour.

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imnotsoho t1_iubni6c wrote

When I had to replace mine I bought a new set of Allen wrenches at HF because I needed longer ones. One was too small, another too big, the one in between didn't work either. Then I compared the long one to the short one in the same set and it was a different size! If there is an Allen set screw on your handle one size will fit it if it is made properly. I have mine set all the way to hot, my water heater only goes to 140, in winter I turn it full hot until it is hot to save water, then adjust and step in.

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imnotsoho t1_iube3jr wrote

My uncle was a Morse code operator in WWII. He told me he could send and receive at the same time.

Also during WWII there were Allied coders who could recognize the signature cadence of Nazi operators so they could tell when certain units had moved from one location to another.

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imnotsoho t1_iu22981 wrote

More importantly, if you are the last car in line when you come to a stop flash your brake lights several times or put on your flashers. If the car behind you is 50 car lengths back and you just have steady brake lights they might not realize you are stopped especially if the sun is at a bad angle. Do what you can to get their attention.

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imnotsoho t1_iu210wq wrote

Replace the cord. Lots of good advice here, but one I didn't see mentioned, a washing machine moves a lot, that will be transferred to the cord. Sometimes the load will shift and the washer will "walk" several feet, putting lots of stress on the cord. You don't want the weak point to be the plug end you put on, you want the cord to pull out of the wall if the washer walks that far.

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imnotsoho t1_itaviap wrote

Either use a utility knife to cut in middle of studs and drywall saw to cut the horizontals or use the drywall saw to cut a 1x1 foot hole with a bevel so the cut out piece is easily replaced. Bevel it so the saw tip point towards center of square, put a screw in the center first so you don't lose the whole thing inside the wall.

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