*Shithead drones.

But they charge fast, so you can spend more time hating them. It's a win-win!

If you don't have one already, get your epa 608 certification for funsies to totally cut out an entire industry of price gouging vultures. I got the study guide on a Mon, read bits over the next few evenings, and took the test that Friday, then went out of town. Came home to find a universal certification in my pile of mail. After spending few thousand in tools, I'm set. No more calling the hvac guy. The tools paid for themselves in less than a year by using them to tackle a few side jobs at a heavily discounted rate.

Thanks! Mass downvoting from the sensitive type was totally expected. I'm not here to cottle those who need their safe spaces. The true story depicted was totally intended to target the few people who would get it. That movie is fucking awful.

For many years I thought there could never be a Copper Mountain tragedy as awful as that movie with Jim Carrey. Lo and behold, this tops it.

Good point. As this is older news, kinda surprising that Gwyneth Paltrow hasn't already made the 'live bee enema' trendy.

Setting it back to before the time of twatter would be nice.

A computer that will forget things and procrastinate so we don't have to? How convenient! I'm in!

Whatever, pal.

No worries, pal. You choose to be a douchebag, and I totally respect that.

This is a common problem. Many a porn star has had to scrub due to an ignition fluid issue.

Edit for all the people downvoting:

Excessive air coming from the oil fill is an obvious sign of a problem with the rings, cylinder, piston, or valves. My guess is broken rings or a fault with the intake valve. Such a defect will also prevent a compressor from intaking as much air as one that does not have such a defect, thus explaining why the air leak is deemed excessive yet assumed to not be the problem.

My bad for being tired and not breaking it down properly the first time. I get that most people lack the mechanical understanding necessary to have reached this obvious conclusion, especially considering how scattered my earlier trail of bread crumbs was.

Feel free to get back to downvoting. I also have a comment below for your downvoting enjoyment.

Original reply:

Get back on that original note, pal. Compressors work like internal combustion engines in that they have a crank shaft, pistons, and rings. Some leak through the rings is acceptable, but bear in mind that any air coming out of the oil cap is air not making it into the tank. Ergo, a lot of air coming out of the oil cap equates to a lot of leak. This is to be expected of a worn out unit, not a new one.

Granted, I do not know @op's gauge of what comprises a lot of air leaking out.

First experienced sun chips as a child. Opened the bag and took a sniff. Ugh. The flavor wasn't great, but those things truly smelled horrid.

What I'd do: Add a 3/8 tee to the hot side and connect the dishwasher to a hot water source, as God intended. Add a valve to the old dishwasher cold water supply and connect the fridge to that.

There's no harm in leaving the dishwasher connected as it is and putting a tee on the cold side. However, a dishwasher issue will result in having to shut off the water. Only costs a few bucks to add a valve there.

It's the same everywhere, in that a company will ride a bunch of low hourly workers on one guy's high hourly license. I get that service trucks and tools are expensive, but that guy can fuck right off. Idgaf how much profit he has after paying for all that equipment and whatnot. Would rather have a reasonable wage so I can afford my own damn equipment. I've picked up several trades out of necessity or to prevent having to deal with such vultures. Been a long time since I've had to call a mechanic, electrician, plumber, carpenter, welder, locksmith, appliance repairman, or hvac guy. The only licensing I ever bothered with was the EPA 608 license for hvac. Holy hell those hvac tools were expensive, but they paid for themselves in like 2 side jobs that I did for several thousand dollars less than the big guys quoted.

Fucks sake. You mean, all this time I could have been commuting from Mississippi to New York to make a killing doing simple plumbing work? Meh. Probably too much licensing and permit requirements.

New York?! The only place with prices as bad as California, or even worse? No wonder you don't want to hire a plumber! Good luck with the project!

Wish I lived close enough to just help you with this task, but guessing you are nowhere near Jackson, MS.

The pipe coming from the wall as drain line should be 2", and hopefully not iron pipe. .....but very often it is iron. This larger pipe is less apt to break.

As for the 1/2" galvanized supply lines, I would recommend against any shark bite type fitting going onto galvanized pipe. It's kinda rough and may not make a good seal. Also, if galvanized pipe breaks off there's still gonna be threads which can be sharp enough to damage the o-ring in a shark bite fitting.

Perhaps I am a minority, but my experience with shitty 1/4" and 3/8" shark bite type fittings biased me against that crap all together. Sure o-ring technology may have improved such that they don't crush in 6 years and leak if you sneeze on them after the o-rings are deformed. Still, I will never use shark bite type fittings if any other solution exists.

If the 1/2" pipe breaks off at the valve, you'd be much better off trying to jackass it with something threaded. The fitting I used for that purpose may have had female 5/8 flare threads. It took a lot of Teflon tape and threaded past the remaining 1/2" npt threads. Wish I could find an example part on Amazon, but didn't have any luck.

It's possible, but washing machines are high water demand appliances so expect longer run time for both dishwasher and washing machine if you run them at the same time.

A major concern is draining the washing machine, as those things dump a huge amount of water. The kitchen sink drain is only 1.5" pipe, though they often go into 2" pipe at the wall. Washing machine drains usually go straight into 2" pipe and must have an air gap.

Dumping it into the sink could provide an air gap and a decent baffle tank, but this would not be an elegant solution. Putting a tee into your kitchen drain line, running a pipe through the cabinet, then installing a riser to the height of the kitchen countertop could work. Just strap the riser to the cabinet and hook the washing machine drain into it. If you install the tee after the sink J trap, you'll also need to put a J trap on your newly jackassed washing machine drain line.

Your case looks special, in that you have fancy kitchen drain line shit. Assuming that J trap has 2" threads, if you can remove that reducer tee from the J trap and install a 2" tee, then install your reducer tee on top of that, things could work quite nicely. Of course, you'd have to shorten this sink drain pipes a bit too get them hooked back up.

This could cause a building code violation, but as long as you don't get caught it's better than trips to the laundromat. You may also want to make sure you're even allowed to have a washing machine, as the first unbalanced load will rat out your washing machine ownership to all of your neighbors.

The only other thing to consider is that washing machines also dump huge amounts of lint down the drain. This is only a concern if the building has iron sewer pipe, as the rust chunks can cause lint buildup.

P.S. if/when you have to replace your kitchen sink drain pipes, do not use the thin brass nonsense. Plastic will not etch out over time, but thin brass will. If you live there long enough, you'll see exactly what I'm taking about.

Compression valves like the one you linked will work fine on naked copper, but are useless on threaded pipe.

The major issue will be getting the old valves removed without snapping anything off. If the pipes coming out of the wall are galvanized iron they are a ticking time bomb, but the pipes they are connected to would most likely also be galvanized iron. Ergo, wrenching on those valves could snap off pipe in the wall. You'll have to be very careful, and even that may not be good enough.

Back in the day, I helped out an old man whose bathroom shutoff valves were leaking at the galvanized threads. Was going to try to tighten the valves onto the pipe, but as soon as I bumped the cold valve with a pipe wrench it shot off like a rocket. Water was everywhere in an instant. Oops. Learned that day to shut off water before sneezing on galvanized pipe. It was 1/2" galvanized pipe. Luckily I had some 5/8" fittings which fit well enough into the remaining threads to stop the leak. Considered myself very lucky that the pipe didn't break in the wall while installing.

If I'm seeing things wrong and that's brass coming out of the wall, removing the old valve may not risk snapping the pipe off at the threads going into the valve. However, that piece of pipe is threaded into something and odds are very high that the pipe within the wall is galvanized. I simply cannot tell.

Any surgery involving old galvanized pipe risks opening a pandora's box of plumbing issues. Attempting repair of one bit can lead to the next bit farther back breaking. Attempting to fix that next bit can break the next one back.

I totally get your determination to remove that jackass bandaid job, as redundant nonfunctional valves are stupid and the whole thing looks like shit. I'd definitely handle such an issue myself, as I have all the tools and skills to handle the repair and deal with any resulting damage. However, I fear you may lack a few necessary tools and skills. I encourage getting the tools and earning the skills rather than calling a price gouging vulture in nearly all cases, but this particular mission carries a lot of extra risk and may not be the ideal situation for breaking your plumbing cherry. Adding a valve for the drinking water and dishwasher is much simpler and less prone to causing major issues, albeit another jackass bandaid of a repair.

If you must do this surgery, secure the pipe coming out of the wall with a pipe wrench to make sure the only thing that turns is the old valve you are removing. The new valve must have the appropriate npt threads to fit the old pipe. I'm guessing its 1/2" npt, but it could be 3/4" or an oddball size. Assuming it is 1/2" npt, I would use this type of valve to accommodate the sink and dishwasher/ fridge and add a stop tee on the cold side for drinking water. Obviously longer lines or extensions would be needed to connect the faucet.

It's an apartment. Replacing that stuff isn't on you, but if you alter it and it causes damage that could be on you.

The old valve is brass and some old brass valves had lead, especially in the packing around the valve stem. Also not uncommon for old brass fittings to have a little lead. Does that valve have lead? I dunno.

The shiny spots in the threads on the riser lead me to believe it's brass. That's good. Can't tell for certain if the pipe coming out of the wall is a brass nipple or galvanized. Brass and copper are great for durability. Galvanized sucks, as the protective coating goes away from the inside, which then leads to rusting. The thinnest part of galvanized pipe is where it's threaded, so if it's old and rusted inside that's exactly where it can break off and force you into a plumber or maintenance man situation.

Besides a slight possibility of lead contamination, whatever pipe is bringing water into your house is perfectly suitable for water delivery. The alternative is for the landlord to rip out the entirety of water pipe in the building and replace with pex or copper. Such surgery is very costly, so that is unlikely to happen until the entire building starts having incessant plumbing issues.

Reverse osmosis water filtration can remove nearly all heavy metals and other undesirable crap from the water, so if you're gonna replace anything I'd recommend upgrading to RO for your drinking water and also run the RO to your fridge. Reverse osmosis needs a place to dump the trash water, which would require drilling a hole in the sink drain and installing a fitting (usually comes with the RO kit). You'd also have to replace the drinking water faucet to the one that comes with the RO kit, as it has an air gap (or damn well should) for the trash water. RO systems produce water very slowly, thus they come with a holding tank. It'll still come out slow like the current filter, but you can be assured that it's much cleaner.

Don't worry. Soon enough you'll get to hear more about Sam.

Fuck. You're in an apartment? Definitely do the suggested route instead of moving the npt tee. You don't want to do anything that could break stuff and cause water damage. Your deposit is at stake.

Edit: swypo

The tee you're talking about has npt threads. Always use thread sealer, such as Teflon tape, on npt threads.

Looks like a close (short) nipple going from valve to tee, then of course a longer nipple used as a riser. I can't tell what material the supply lines are made of, tho. If they're galvanized, find another way to perform this surgery. If the supply is pvc, just be careful. If it's copper you'll still have to be careful, though it's far less prone to snapping off in your hand and causing a mess.

Suggestion: Since you don't trust the original shutoff, install a shutoff valve on the existing tee for the fridge cold water supply line and add a 3/8 x 3/8 x 3/8 stop tee to the hot side for your dishwasher supply line. Some day you may find it very useful to shut off the water supply to the fridge for a couple days and still have a cold water supply. Your local hardware store should have all those parts, but often the bastards don't.