They were likely also up a ladder, winding the torsion spool when a lever let go, sending the second lever into their chest. A surprisingly common injury.

Oh I have a Model 1- great machine! Far more accurate than a Hossfeld.

That is LED. It will have a voltage written on the back that is most likely line voltage (110 in US, 250 UK/Eire.) You replace the whole thing. About $15 for cheap, $40 for excellent tilting type.

That is an LED. Those little pips are just lenses.

https://www.pioneer-leisure.co.uk/lg_images/Recessed_Eyeball_LED_Light.jpg

DiAcro made sheet metal equipment- punches, brakes, shears, etc.

I don't think your burner is lighting at all. You can prove that the warm water is just leftover by just letting it run and finding it eventually just cold.

Nobody has mentioned a thermocouple. That's the easiest and most common fault of a gas DHW heater. Google thermocouple replacement. No need to drain the tank. Just turn black knob to off, slide access panel open, re and re thermocouple, then follow instructions to re-start your controller (typically turn black knob to pilot, press and hold and light pilot while new thermocouple heats, turn black knob to on, hear satisfying click and whoomph, close access panel)

I used to move heavy tools for a living- we routinely drilled a 1/2” hole 2” from the top of a 2x10 exposed ceiling joist in basements with a 12 foot span and hoisted 1100 pound lathes onto their floor stands from one point.

For eyed lags or hooks, pre drill perfectly in the middle of joists to just under root diameter and add a dab of PL premium to the hole, but wax the fastener if you ever want to get it out- this consolidates the deformed fibres the screw threads form and adds pullout resistance. Four GRK structural fasteners to a bracket spanning two joists is much better than one big lag if you have that option.

Yes it has to split the tube to get its plunger down the throat. Then it just wugga-wuggas itself along L- presumably by gripping the outside in a tripping ring/ collet-like thing.

I can’t see it lasting through one tube of PL premium you leave half- used. Never the twain would part.

Traditional windows this size would use a nominal 2x2 muntin but with a profile done on a shaper. They would not be dadoed and built around the plexi becasue that way you can't replace the panes; they use a rabbet and stop or putty instead. The vertical of the cross gets a 90 degree notch both sides, as does each inner edge of the outer frame where it meets the ends of the "cross." The ends of the cross are pointed 45 degrees each side to register in the four notches. It's a very strong construction, simple on a tablesaw.