Nothing to do with age, credit, or any type of payments.

Very probable that it has to do with the information you entered and what it was compared to for identity verification.

Assuming you mean realized losses, yes, those get carried forward.

Be careful, sometimes the new account can be notified that an applicant had their profile updated. Not saying they will get it, or even do anything with it, but that can be a thing.

Whatever the current rate on that new account is. They will (should) send you a reminder that it's coming due. Then you will have about 10 days depending on their language to do something with it penalty free.

Good for short term. Be aware of grace periods auto renewal. Very likely they will renew it to something paying next to nothing if you don't do something with it in 5 months.

The 5% is based if you held it 12 months. For 5 months you will earn 5/12 of that amount. That works out to about 2.08%, or about $200.

It comes down to one of 3 things. They are for people who either don't have the will, the skill, or the time to worry about it.

Then don't use your advisors advice. Is that the only fund options you have? Do you have passive managed funds available to you within the 401k? Not every plan is good, many aren't, and just have high ER funds. Yours could be that. If so, then I would only put in what it takes to get the match then focus on IRA. Only come back to the 401k after the IRA is capped out. Few things outperform the S&P 500 as that's a pretty close measure to the whole market. Not the most inclusive, but close.

A 401k by itself doesn't lose, or make you, money. That depends on what you invest in with money inside the 401k. It's effectively the same as an IRA but through work. Working to max out an IRA while hesitant about a 401k is contradictory.

Unless you get court appointments for it, you can't. They will be an adult. Adults get to make their own choices, even if wrong. Trying to take it and not turn it over could be seen as a variation of theft. Similar to how failing to turn over a UTMA account can get you in trouble.

I'm not aware (remember) any rules on whether something is luxury or not. Could you have been removed for how you asked a question and not what you were asking about? I.e asking open ended questions without a direct question about your personal situation?

Yield is yield. A 10% growth, no dividend yield is the same as a 3% dividend and 7% growth. Plus, the added benefit of not being forced into a taxable event, if within a taxable account.

You never want to "buy the dividend" it's a net zero and taxable, again if within a taxable account.

That's right. On the ex date, the share price is literally reduced by the amount of the dividend. It's hard to see as prices move in real time. If on ex date you have a single 100$ share and it pays a 5$ dividend, you will then have a share worth 95$, if even for a moment, and 5$ cash, which you can then use to reinvest.

If the stock goes up. No guarantee it will.

There is an app. It's called you brain. If paying multiple cards, with either the avalanche or snowball method its minimum balance on all except for 1 card where you make all the payment you can regardless of minimum.

There isn't any math to do or worry about. The only info you need are either balances, for snowball method, or interest rates for avalanche method.

It seems like you are just struggling with how to implement the program because they are very straightforward.

If your only 403b contributions are through one employer, payroll should automatically stop at the maximum. Just make sure you don't save at a rate too high that you max early and miss out on match if there isn't a true up provision.

Just being brutally honest. You will absolutely not be approved for even a 240k mortgage making 34k and only 10 down.

You need to double your cash for down payment, closing, and emergency fund, then cut your purchase price budget by at least half of the low end. Even then you will possibly need additional earned income.

Broad market index funds. If it goes to zero, the world has ended and money doesn't matter. Not saying it won't lose value at times, but takes out all single company risk.

Go through the prime directive.

I assume you are maxing out retirement?

The zero coupon just means it doesn't pay you interest. Your yield is determined by what you buy it for at a discount. You buy it for 95$ and 6 months later they return 100$. That difference is your interest. All rates are annual so, you have to calculate the fractional yield.

T bills/CDs/HYSA are the perfect vehicle for sub 5 year time horizons. I just wanted to make sure you weren't putting money in those things without an objective. Otherwise, the only cash on hand should be immediate bills and 3-6 months emergency fund. Totally fine to have those plus a house saving fund.

You don't need a band aid app or special account, that I'm doubtful even exists. You are 24. You just need to learn self control. It's part of adulting that you just have to do on your own.

The late 90s and early 2000s had nothing to do with having an advisor or not. That was peak dot com bubble burst. If you think now is bad, this doesn't compare to that.

What are you wanting a financial advisor to do for you. You should probably be doing more than trying to max out 401k and IRA. On top of that you can just invest the same way but in a taxable account. Excess savings without a clear objective in T bills/CDs/HYSA isn't smart in the long run. Define your purpose and invest that way. Mindlessly throwing money in savings isn't smart.

Investment losses reduce taxable income.

You can ask, but your landlord has absolutely zero obligation or reason to do anything since you are on the hook for 10 more months under the lease terms you have.

Depends if you are selling for a gain or loss. Nothing will be due when you sell for tax. There are no penalties in taxable accounts. If selling for a gain, you will either have long term or short term capital gains tax due. If selling at a loss, there is no tax due and you can claim up to 3000 in a tax deduction, net of offsetting gains.

Just withdrawing cash from the account is not a taxable event.