The 20% is just the prepayment withholding. What you owe will be based on your income tax rate. Why do you think you won't pay the tax rate plus the 10% penalty?

You recharacterize to traditional, then backdoor convert back to Roth. Also, it is actual income that determines eligibility, not salary rate.

Trade away all you want. IRAs/401ks, with limited exceptions like owning MLPs, have their tax considerations only when money enters/leaves the account. Reitement accounts also have zero capital gains tax considerations.

That's true, but not when it comes to asset allocation. You get around it by doing the same split in each type.

There's literally zero need. You are looking for a solution to a problem that doesn't exist.

Tax rate is irrelevant. Just look at the dollars in the account and allocate accordingly. Don't overthink it.

Recharacterize it to tradtional contributions. Then do backdoor Roth conversions.

401k accounts are not FDIC insured. They aren't bank accounts. Brokerages also aren't covered by FDIC.

1. Yes.

2. IRA means individual. You can open one wherever you want. Limits here don't cross with 401k.

Since I see you mentioned Canada in another post, you will likely get more tailored answers in r/personalfinancecanada

What was your income and how much did you pay in total? Those are the two questions with taxes. They are just a simple math formula. If you owe, it means you didn't have enough withholding done during the year.

If paying interest, pay everything you possibly can.

If not paying interest, then pay the statement balance by the statement due date.

No, you can't appear to give someone money while not giving them money. Unless you want to intentionally write a bad check which is check fraud.

Welcome to how paying compound interest works.

If you have the money, do it now. The whole time in market thing.

Utilization resets monthly and has no tracking. It's pointless to worry about month to month, so use it if you want. If you do have a need for credit inquiries, make a couple extra payments and keep the utilization low when it gets reported for that month. Manipulation of utilization is easy.

Also keep in mind that unless you are buying a new model with manufacturer incentive financing, you will not find a 3.4% rate. In fact, short of having that promo, a good car rate is about 6%, maybe 5.x% if you look hard enough.

Assuming you take their deals they will pay off the financing and that leaves you with about 7k for a down payment on something else.

Trading a car in is effectively selling to a dealer. How much is the truck worth today? Keep in mind you don't trade in at retail.

So 2 years and you are back to where you were with a paid off LOC today. Plus you still have the option to tap the LOC if absolutely needed while saving on the interest paid. I'd pay it off.

So you have 190k outside of retirement accounts and an otherwise paid off house? If you paid the LOC today and paid yourself, how fast could you replenish? Even then, the LOC interest is higher than any savings interest. I'd still pay it off with that.

Don't miss any more payments, take your medicine, and wait.

You still have a minimum monthly payment. That is standard. Whether or not those payments will pay it off in full is up to how the minimum is structured. A balloon payment at the end may be needed

IANAL but I'm almost certain beyond a doubt that they legally can't force you to use any financing from them. What if you wanted to pay cash?

They can require their financing for promo rates, etc, but a blanket no outside financing is questionable at best.

So? I'm pumping up contributions. Wealth is made coming out of recessions. By thing unequivocally turn, you are late.